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A: The Dremel Scroll Station Models 1800 and 1830 include the ability to easily use both plain- and pin-end blades.
A: Because the spiral blades are machine-twisted end-to-end it is difficult for the adapter to grasp the blades tightly. To improve the grasp, flatten the ends of the blade using pliers.
A: No tools are needed for fast and easy pin- or plain-end blade changes. One of the greatest advantages is a faster, easier inside cut. The blade remains in position in the bottom holder while the work piece is threaded on the top half of the blade. The upper portion of the blade is easily tightened in place again. After lowering the tension control in place, cutting can resume.
A: Tensioning the blade properly takes a little practice. If your blade is popping out of the holder frequently, chances are there is too much tension being put on the blade. If too much tension is placed on the blade, the blade will not hold adequately in the holders and will pop out of place. If too little tension is being placed on the blade the blade can bend as it moves through the wood. If the tooth of the blade gets stuck, the blade can break. Continual breakage is generally an indication that there is not enough tension on the blade.
A: Several reasons can contribute to the cut of the blade. One of the contributors is the process by which blades are manufactured. The blades are actually stamped out and tend to be heavier to one side. The blade will have a natural pull to the right as a result. Now, couple that pull to the right with the fact that wood has grain that can be filled with sap and heavy fiber and cutting straight can be challenging. Remember to compensate for both. It is not impossible that you will have to angle your wood somewhat to cut a straight pass on your scroll saw.
A: The blade holder was designed to hold all standard 5” blades currently found at retail outlets. But occasionally, the thickest blade available is hard to insert. To remedy this, the blade holder screw (opposite from the knob) needs to be adjusted instead of using the knob. Use one of the Allen wrenches provided with the saw to loosen the screw that secures the blade in place (make sure the knob is tight). Insert the blade and tighten the screw until the blade is secured. To go back to using smaller, thinner blades again, tighten the screw completely, and secure the blades with the knob.
A: Use the following guidelines:
Soft Wood = Up to 1.75"
Hard Wood = Up to 1" (also angle cutting between 45 and 90 degrees)
Non-Ferrous Metals = Up to 1/8"
Angle Cutting = 45-degree angle will accept 1" soft wood or hard wood. As angle cutting increases from 45-90 degrees, the thickness of the wood can be increased. Plastic must be cut at LOW speed (or the plastic will melt).
A: This problem can be overcome in one of two ways or a combination of both: One way is to simply saw the material while it is supported on another piece of waste material. Cheap plywood or a flat piece of corrugated cardboard may do the trick. The other method is to use an auxiliary table made of thin hardboard or plywood. This can be cut to match the size of the current table, and held in place with two-sided tape. Simply drill a very small hole to thread the blade through.
A: Plastics that can be cut: ABS plastic sheeting and/or water pipe. No Plexiglas or acrylics.
A: No. We do have a blade (the tungsten carbide blade) that will cut wall tile, but glass is much more brittle throughout. It is an application that requires some sort of wash or bath to keep the material and the blade from getting too hot. Unfortunately that is not an application we recommend completing with this tool.
A: No, we do not have a rip fence. Rip cutting is generally done with stock that is much thicker than most scroll saws can handle. The slotting that would be required in the table to support a rip fence could become very prohibitive to the smooth flow of smaller work pieces over the table.
A: Standard 5” adhesive-backed discs from a variety of manufacturers are available in a wide assortment of grits at your local retailer.
A: Without a layer of protective coating, cast iron tables will discolor from fingerprints and other environmental factors. To clean a discolored table, use a metal polish (such as Noxon® Metal Polish) and a soft cloth. This should remove any discoloration, and give your table a nice shine. © 2000 Noxon
A: This sticky coating is applied to protect the table during shipment. This protective coating can be removed with any type of degreaser product - citrus-based degreasers (such as Goo Gone®) work well to remove the coating. Do not use acetone, gasoline or paint thinner to remove the coating - these will damage the table surface. After removing the protective coating, apply a coat of paste wax to the table surface. This will allow your work piece to slide easily across the table, and help deter rusting and discoloration due to changing climates and fingerprints.
© 2000 Magic American Corporation
A: Cast iron tables are prone to rusting if they don't have a protective coating on the surface to repel water and humidity. To clean a rusty table, first apply a lubricant on the rusty area. Then, with light, even strokes, polish the affected area with a scratch pad until the rust is removed. Be careful not to rub too long or too hard in one area or it could result in an uneven table surface. Degrease the table surface, and apply a layer of paste wax or a surface protectant (such as TopCote® Table & Tool Surface Sealant) to repel water and humidity.
© 1998 to 2000 by Lee Valley Tools Ltd. and Veritas® Tools Inc. All rights reserved.