A: The door on the left side of the saw (the nameplate with model number) opens to expose the working parts of the saw. The eccentric (Code #52 on the parts diagram) has probably loosened over time. Tighten the set screw on the eccentric. Also check the Allen head holding the connecting link to the eccentric. To help reduce vibration, be sure to set your saw on carpet padding and fasten securely to the workbench or stand.
A: Use the following guidelines:
Soft Wood = Up to 2"
Hard Wood = Up to 1" (also angle cutting between 45 and 90 degrees)
Non-Ferrous Metals = Up to 1/8"
Angle Cutting = 45-degree angle will accept 1" soft wood or hard wood. As angle cutting increases from 45-90 degrees, the thickness of the wood can be increased.
Plastic must be cut at LOW speed (or the plastic will melt).
A: This problem can be overcome in one of two ways or a combination of both: One way is to simply saw the material while it is supported on another piece of waste material. Cheap plywood or a flat piece of corrugated cardboard may do the trick.
The other method is to use an auxiliary table made of thin hardboard or plywood. This can be cut to match the size of the current table, and held in place with two sided tape. Simply drill a very small hole to thread the blade through.
A: Plastics that can be cut at low speeds: ABS plastic sheeting and/or water pipe. No Plexiglas or acrylics.
A: No. We do have a blade (the tungsten carbide blade) that will cut wall tile, but glass is much more brittle throughout. It is an application that requires some sort of wash or bath to keep the material and the blade from getting too hot. Unfortunately that is not an application we recommend completing with this tool.
A: No, we do not have a rip fence. Rip cutting is generally done with stock that is much thicker than most scroll saws can handle. The slotting that would be required in the table to support a rip fence could become very prohibitive to the smooth flow of smaller work pieces over the table.