FAQ
Top Frequently Asked Questions
The Dremel Idea Builder Printer (3D20 & 3D40) are high quality 3D printer that goes above and beyond to mentor users through the 3D building process and introduce users to methods for turning their ideas into reality. The Dremel 3D Builder builds in 3D which means instead of putting ink onto a flat surface like in regular printing, it builds up material in three dimensions to create an object. It heats plastic filament and then draws it out in very fine layers.
The Series 100 is a constant speed tool – 35,000 RPM. The tool itself is an economical option that allows the use of accessories that require a high speed. A key application that generally requires high speed is a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. Using that at a slow speed will make the accessory less effective. There are high speed rotary tool accessories in our line that we do not recommend using with the Series 100 because the accessories require a lower speed for safe operation. Always check the speed rating on an accessory before using it in the tool.
The Cutting Guide Attachment is designed to help the user maintain depth while using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).
The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.
The 8220, 8100, ad 8050 all share some similarities, but the 8220 kicks control up a notch or two over the 8100 and 8050. They are all powered by lithium ion power, the 8220 is a 12V Max battery pack that is removable from the unit, the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8220 can work with our older high performance attachments. The 8220 features a speed slide that is separated from the on/off switch. The benefit for any user is that when you find that sweet spot for speed, they will be able to get back to that pretty quickly. The on/off switch on the 8220 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.
The Dremel 4200 features a unique method of quickly changing the same shank size accessory – called EZ change. it is supported with a different nose on the tool and a different style collet. This feature allows the user to release or pull back on two small levers on the housing of the tool to loosen and remove or insert the accessory, and pull forward toward the nose of the tool to tighten the accessory and hold it in place. The feature is designed to save time and effort when users are switching from one accessory to the other with the same shank size. The model 4000 uses our standard collets held in place by a collet nut that threads onto the tool.
These attachment really work with the same basic accessories. The Circle Cutting Guide has a pivot point on it that will allow you to make a circle in your material or you can quickly convert the guide to be used to cut or channel a straight cut from the edge of the material. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same - while they help you manage the depth, cutting a circle with either of these two is done free-hand. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.
The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same as the Grout Removal Attachment. The Multipurpose and Tile Cutting Guides are flat and manage depth at best when flat against the material. The Grout Removal Attachment is angled to accommodate smoother, more efficient removal of a fine grout line. You can also using the Cutting Guide or Tile Guide in different directions. For the greatest success with grout removal, we recommend only PULLING this attachment - never push it. Pushing this attachment in the material will damage and/or likely break the grout removal bit.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
These tools all share some similarities, but the 3000 provides the user with a click-and-set variable speed control. The Series 100 is a single speed tool and the Series 200 is a two speed tool. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 3000 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The variable speed option allows the user to take the speed down a little further when using accessories that have a speed limit – like a brush or a buff.
General
Yes, click here to view our Dremel accessory guide
The gas used for the Versatip and Versaflame is regular butane gas. This is the same gas that is used for cigarette lighters. Dremel does not sell butane fuel. Butane can be easily found at Home Centers and Hardware dealers. Follow the instruction manual on how to refill the tank.
The Versatip is used for soft soldering applications and pyrography. The pen-shape on this tool makes it very comfortable to use for precise jobs. It also includes more tips than the Versaflame, so it can be used for broader applications. The Versaflame is used for more general soldering work. It can be used as a soldering iron as well as an open flame stationary torch.
Both tools can reach a temperature of up to 1200°C, depending on the accessory used. The difference between the 2 tools is that the Versaflame has a higher energy output, so you can heat-up more material in a shorter time.
You can hear the gas flowing when you switch the tool on but it does not ignite.
This could be because there is no spark coming from the Versatip. In order to correct this please ensure the Metal Flame Guard is correctly and tightly secured. This will ensure connection to the metal pin which generates the spark. Do not touch the Versatip until it has been cooled down completely.
This could be because the nozzle has become blocked by liquid butane. The most common cause of a blocked nozzle is overfilling of the tank. The tank is full when liquid butane gas escapes from the filling valve. Once this happens please stop refilling the gas to avoid overfilling of the tank. Please refer to the (RE)FILLING THE TANK section of the Versatip manual for more details.
If the problem persists, unscrew the Metal Flame Guard. Then unscrew the Ceramic Insulator. Remove the Nozzle with a set of pliers and allow the liquid butane inside the nozzle to vaporize by holding the nozzle for 30 second and then reassemble the components.
If a problem persists beyond these suggestions, please contact us so we can provide guidance on getting your tool to us so we can take a closer look at it.
There are only two accessories that can be used in the Engraver – the carbide tip #9924 and the diamond tip #9929. Accessories that work in the high speed rotary tool line are not suitable for use in this impact engraver.
The carbide point will work well for general purpose engraving in most materials. If you have an application that will require continuous work or involves much more brittle material like glass, the diamond tip is designed to handle harder loads for a longer time. It will provide the same engraving performance but will withstand harder materials and/or longer use on ordinary materials.
There is a little set screw on the side of the tool where the point meets the housing of the tool. By loosening that set screw, it is very easy to replace the tip.
It increases or decreases the impact of the engraving tip.
No. The MotoSaw does require use of the blades specifically designed for the MotoSaw. They are all pin-end blades and they are 4” long. Standard scroll saw blades are 5” length.
With the different blades you can cut wood, plastic, and light gauge metal. The MS50 and MS52 will cut wood and plastic in the standard position on the saw. The MS51 is a side cutting blade that allows for greater widths to be cut with the teeth of the blade mounted to the side. The MS53 is designed to cut light gauge metal.
We don’t really compare this to a standard scroll saw – standard scroll saws take a variety of blades and they also take up a lot of space. They are often weigh more than 40 pounds without a leg set. The MotoSaw is small, compact and the saw itself weighs less than 3 pounds. Most cutting will be done with the saw mounted in the table – and that can go on a variety of table widths. In the event you have to cut something in an awkward spot, the saw will remove from the base and be taken to the material being cut. The placement and tensioning of the blades is simple and easy – there’s no guesswork. And when you’re done using the saw you can put it all back in the case and store the saw out of the way.
Several things can contribute to the cut of the blade. One of the contributors is the process by which blades ae manufactured. The blades are actually stamped out and tend to be heavier to one side. The blade will have natural pull to the right as a result. Keep in mind that wood will also have some defined grain running through it. The grain can be filled with sap or heavy fiber and cutting straight can be challenging. It will be important to compensate for both of these factors – even if you’re using the miter guide. With a heavier grained wood, it’s not impossible that you would have to position that material at an angle to execute a straight cut.
On softer wood you can cut up to ½” thick. Harder wood up to ¼”.
If control had been easy and now it’s not and you recently changed a blade, make sure you installed the blade with the teeth pointing DOWN. The blade cuts on the down stroke. If the development is recent and you’ve changed grade of wood or thickness, keep in mind you will have to adjust your feed rate. Make sure you place your drop foot just above you work. That will help with control directly surrounding the blade.
We call those “hurry marks.” What’s really happening is during the cutting process the feed rate is just heavy enough that the blade is bowing back into the table and slicing into the table a little at a time. We encourage the following – pushing harder will not make the saw cut faster. If you want to cut faster, increase the speed on the saw. You greatest opportunity for success will be developing a moderate feed rate that does not put excess pressure on the blade. A moderate feed rate will extend the life of the blade, the saw, and will produce better results.
The tool heats to a maximum temperature of 1050°.
Yes, you could decrease the temperature with an independent controller. You cannot increase it.
With the hot knife attachment (#499), you will find a combination of cutting and melting through the material.
Those are available through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.
Contact us or send that in to our Service Center. The tips are designed to withstand the higher 1000°+ temperature of the VersaTip. However those will wear and will require replacement. If the tip seems difficult to thread in and out of the nose of the tool, it’s a sign that it could be time to replace.
Rotary
The Series 100 is a single speed tool. The Series 200 is a two speed tool.
The Series 100 is a constant speed tool – 35,000 RPM. The tool itself is an economical option that allows the use of accessories that require a high speed. A key application that generally requires high speed is a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. Using that at a slow speed will make the accessory less effective. There are high speed rotary tool accessories in our line that we do not recommend using with the Series 100 because the accessories require a lower speed for safe operation. Always check the speed rating on an accessory before using it in the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
No – we exclude the Grout Removal Attachment because the accessory should operate between speeds of 18,000 – 20,000 rpm. Also, the A550 Shield comes with a brush – so while the attachment will fit, keep in mind we do not recommend using that brush on the Series 100.
The Series 100 is really designed for Cutting, Carving, Sanding, Engraving. . . and applications that require high speed. If you know your application could require more varying speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the Series 200, 3000, 4000 or 4200.
This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.
No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
These tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple – even the fastest of these tools – the model 7700 only operates at 20,000 RPM. Some of those more aggressive applications should really be done with a higher speed. You can use cutting wheels with these tools but cutting is an aggressive application – you may find the process will take longer, wear the battery down faster and wear the accessory out more quickly. Most of the accessories you will use will have a 1/8” shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8” shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).
The tools are cordless – and they are all small. So they’re a great option for working out small project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you’re using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply isn’t possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have – but they also have run time limits. These tools are small and are really designed for light-duty applications.
This is a great question. While we can’t really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – and a tool with a cord - they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The ni-cad and alkaline cordless tools are a much lighter duty option, the batteries will need to be recharged or replaced. If you’re a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
When plugged in, the green LED light indicates connection has been made and the battery is charging. The green should blink while the battery charges, the green light will be solid when the battery is fully charged.
We recommend first charging the battery overnight – but normally it will take 3 hours.
A great question and often a point of frustration for users. Good habits can stretch the life of the battery. . . Keep in mind that with the first charge, the battery will only accept about 80% of its maximum charge. So it may take a few charge/discharge cycles to get the battery to a full capacity. Consider discharging the battery to a very limited use capacity before recharging. (It’s not necessary to run it out completely). Then recharge before use and don’t interrupt the charging cycle. During periods of non-use, consider unplugging the charger, and storing the battery with only a limited use capacity. When first recharging then, give the battery some extra time on the charger.
The run time on the battery is going to depend on good charging habits – and your application. Hotter more strenuous applications will run the battery down much more quickly than light sanding or polishing. Keep in mind on the 7000 that run time is going to depend on the application, and on the quality of the alkaline batteries you use in the tool.
The 8220, 8100, ad 8050 all share some similarities, but the 8220 kicks control up a notch or two over the 8100 and 8050. They are all powered by lithium ion power, the 8220 is a 12V Max battery pack that is removable from the unit, the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8220 can work with our older high performance attachments. The 8220 features a speed slide that is separated from the on/off switch. The benefit for any user is that when you find that sweet spot for speed, they will be able to get back to that pretty quickly. The on/off switch on the 8220 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
The high performance motor will allow the tool to maintain speed under load/in use. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It is important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
Electronic monitoring provides soft start that reduces the stress on the tool that can occur from a high torque start.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
Three solid lights means the battery is fully charged and ready to go. Two lights indicates the battery has 50% of the remaining charge. One flashing light means the tool is about to turn off. Three flashing lights indicate the tool is too hot for use, let it cool down. Three side to side lights indicate the battery is too low to run at all. A recharge is necessary.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.
Yes
The Dremel 4200 features a unique method of quickly changing the same shank size accessory – called EZ change. it is supported with a different nose on the tool and a different style collet. This feature allows the user to release or pull back on two small levers on the housing of the tool to loosen and remove or insert the accessory, and pull forward toward the nose of the tool to tighten the accessory and hold it in place. The feature is designed to save time and effort when users are switching from one accessory to the other with the same shank size. The model 4000 uses our standard collets held in place by a collet nut that threads onto the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It's important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
To change from collet to another you will need a needle nose pliers (not supplied with the tool). With the pliers, lightly depress the finger of the collet until it is clear of the detent feature that holds the collet in place. Then pull the collet free from the end of the tool (EZ Change Chuck). To insert a new collet, insert the narrow end of the new collet completely into the EZ Change Chuck. The fingers of the collet will have to be aligned with the detents of the EZ Change chuck to be fully inserted. (For more information and illustrations, please refer to the owner's manual for your tool).
It is not possible to use the standard keyless chuck or general line collets on the model 4200. In the event being able to use those holding methods is more critical to your application, our recommendation is to consider the model 4000.
The steps necessary to hold the accessory in place on the 4200 are faster to actuate than unthreading the collet nut or chuck, however it's still really important to execute the steps completely. First make sure you are inserting a shank size that is a match for the collet you have in the 4200. In other words, if you've never changed the collet on your 4200, double check the shank size on your accessory – make sure it's a 1/8 shank. Then, pull the blue EZ change levers back (and keep them back) so all of the pressure is off the collet and insert the shank of the accessory as deeply into the tool as you can. Once fully seated, pull the EZ Change levers FORWARD toward the nose of the tool as far as you can. This will secure the accessory. The accessory should not slip during use. In the event you experience anything of that nature during use, you can try the following: Remove the accessory and remove the collet. Make sure there is nothing in the collet that is causing the accessory to stay slip (like debris or the broken end of a different accessory). Blow out the nose of the tool, or the EZ Chuck portion and then re-insert the collet, then the accessory and tighten completely. Two things to keep in mind: with extended use, the collet will wear and may require replacement. Also, If you are experiencing accessory movement during use after doing these simple trouble shooting steps, please contact us so we can provide service for your tool. The accessory should always be secure during operation.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.
The 4200 can be used with all CURRENT attachments, however, there are some things to consider... If you have what appears to be CURRENT attachments in your possession, with the advent of the 4200 we adjusted some things on those attachments to allow them to fit on the 4200. If the attachment you want to use came in the kit with your 4200, it will certainly work. If you had the attachment prior to owning the 4200 and it doesn't seem like a good fit, do not force that attachment onto the tool. It may simply require a different insert to get it to work and we can help you with that. Another consideration is that the attachment method may not be identical to attaching things to our other high speed rotary tools, so carefully consider all of the instructions for connecting any attachment. For example, to connect the 225 Flex Shaft, the 575 Right Angle, and 670 Mini Saw, you should first remove the housing cap from the tool, then insert the drive coupling (looks like a larger accessory with a square hole in the end), then thread the adapter (solid black cone shaped piece with grip on one edge and threading on the other) onto the end of the 4200. With those things in place, you can now attach the 225, 575, or 670.
These attachments were all developed long before the technology that allows for a faster accessory change when using just the 4200. In the event you are using one of these attachments, to access completely the levers to change an accessory, the tool will need to be removed from the attachment.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
If you don't release the levers and keep them released when inserting an accessory, you may not really seat the accessory fully. Seating the accessory is the first critical step in securing the accessory. When you pull the plungers forward, they will not click, you simply have met with substantial resistance to getting them any further forward. Consider it the same way you would when using an actual threaded chuck or collet nut – as you thread it on, it does not click to indicate the accessory is locked in. Yet the accessory is secure. An additional consideration when using this tool is practicing NOT pushing or bearing down on the accessory. The general rule is if you have to do that, you may have the wrong accessory. Our tool still works the best by using a less aggressive, more frequent pass.
Not necessarily. The 4200 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses – giving the user the freedom of a more rapid same shank accessory change. Our goal in bringing this tool to our users is the continuation of our commitment to on-going improvement, innovation, and high standards.
This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The 8100 and 8050 hare some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power: the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8100 features a speed slide that is built into the on/off switch.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220, so it may be more comfortable in your hand.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.
Yes
The 8050 and 8100 have some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power the 8050 is an 8V Max battery contained lithium ion powered tool, the 8100 is an 8V Max lithium ion powered too with a removable battery pack. They both use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8050 features an advanced push button speed selector and a separate on/off switch. The 8050 is also the physically smallest high speed rotary tool we make and is probably one of the most comfortable and easy to control tools as a result. Users will be less fatigued and more capable of managing fine detail with this tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).
The tool is cordless and it is small. So it is a great option for working out project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220 or 8100 so it will be more comfortable in your hand.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.
When the light flashes red on the tool, it is an indication the tool is about to turn off and will need recharging, or it could be a sign that the tool is too hot or cold for use.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.
3 hours and 45 minutes.
The battery charges at a slower rate so the battery charges safely.
These tools all share some similarities, but the 3000 provides the user with a click-and-set variable speed control. The Series 100 is a single speed tool and the Series 200 is a two speed tool. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 3000 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The variable speed option allows the user to take the speed down a little further when using accessories that have a speed limit – like a brush or a buff.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
It depends – the 3000 features variable speed on a click-and-set switch – when using this tool your speed selection is going to be more of a feel or a sound as you get comfortable using the tool. The speed chart in the owner's manual acts as a guideline for the speed settings of 2/4/6/8/10 on the tool. If you know your application could require more exacting speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 4000 or 4200.
This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
No, you aren't missing speeds. The switch is a continuous slide/click and set switch. There are detents that create the "click" settings, and those run from end to end beneath the switch. The detents can start before the necessary contact is made with the switch – making it seem that you are "missing a speed." Your speed range is still 5,000 to 32,000 rpm.
The Series 100 is a single speed tool. The Series 200 is a two speed tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
First, verify if the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut, so it is just a little stuck in there. Accessories will not fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You will know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you are seeing. IF this does not work to open that up, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
It depends: The Series 200 features two speeds: 15,000 and 35,000 rpm. The benefit of that is you do not have to wonder how fast the tool is going, those speeds are the set speeds. The lower speed setting will allow the use of the full selection of our high speed rotary tool line of accessories, but some materials may really require a lower speed still, like plastic and some polishing applications. If you know your application could requires a wider range of speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 3000, 4000 or 4200.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
The 4000 and 3000 share some similarities, but the 4000 has greater control compared to the 3000. Both tools use the same collets, and work with our keyless chuck, and all current attachments. Additionally, the 4000 can work with our older high-performance attachments. The 4000 features a speed dial that is separated from the on/off switch and can dial up or down speed in approximately 1000 rpm increments. The benefit for any user is that when you find that "sweet-spot" for speed, they will be able to get back to that. The on/off switch on the 4000 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It's important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
No. The 4000 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses.
This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
Saws
The Dremel Ultra-Saw is a handheld saw that allows users to make precise, clean, and straight cuts in a wide variety of materials using compact cutting wheels. The Ultra-Saw has a metal front end and can be used for plunge cutting, straight cutting, flush cutting and surface prep. The Saw-Max has a lighter weight front end and can be used for straight cutting, plunge cutting, and flush cutting.
The Ultra-Saw provides great control and can really be used for a wide variety of applications – including surface prep!
We have wheels that will cut a variety of materials including wood, plastic, wall and floor tile, drywall, masonry, and metal. For surface preparation, we have a paint and rust wheel and a diamond abrasive wheel.
We recommend using the flush cut blade for flush cutting. We do not recommend it for standard cutting.
No. The blades for material like wood are abrasive. To allow for flush cutting, the guarding on this saw is limited. For that reason, we would never recommend using a blade with teeth.
The maximum depth is ¾”.
Our advice with cutting a material like plywood is to remember what you’re cutting – layers of material that alternate the run of the grain for strength and are held together by adhesive. Greatest opportunity for success is to use a moderate feed rate – don’t force the blade to try and cut more than it can. Doing so is going to burn the blade and the material.
We would recommend the Ultra-Saw. The Saw-Max can cut metal, but the housing of the tool is not metal. If metal is your primary application, we recommend the Ultra-Saw because it has a metal front end and will on a long term basis withstand the heat generated from cutting metal.
There would be no benefit in doing this – you would lose cutting depth.
The no load speed is 13,000 RPM
We really recommend using the auxiliary handle during surface prep applications.
The Dremel Saw-Max is a compact, handheld saw that allows users to easily make precise, clean, and straight cuts in a wide variety of materials using compact cutting wheels. The tool is designed to help users with increased cutting accuracy and maneuverability.
The Saw-Max offers excellent cutting control because the saw is compact and it’s easy to see what you’re doing. This saw also has the capacity to make plunge cuts and flush with one-handed operation using abrasive cutting wheels.
We have wheels that will cut a variety of materials including wood, plastic, wall and floor tile, drywall, masonry, and metal.
We recommend using the flush cut blade for flush cutting. We do not recommend it for standard cutting.
No. The blades for material like wood are abrasive. To allow for flush cutting, the guarding on this saw is limited. For that reason, we would never recommend using a blade with teeth.
The maximum depth is ¾”.
Our advice with cutting a material like plywood is to remember what you’re cutting – layers of material that alternate the run of the grain for strength and are held together by adhesive. Greatest opportunity for success is to use a moderate feed rate – don’t force the blade to try and cut more than it can. Doing so is going to burn the blade and the material.
We would recommend the Ultra-Saw. The Saw-Max can cut metal, but the housing of the tool is not metal. If metal is your primary application, we recommend the Ultra-Saw because it has a metal front end and will on a long term basis withstand the heat generated from cutting metal.
17,000 RPM
No. The Ultra-Saw blade are larger diameter – to match the housing of that tool. The will not work properly and safely on the Saw-Max.
Oscillating
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Compared to the MM20, Dremel MM30 provides increased oscillation at a total of 3.2 degrees and a more powerful motor at a total of 3.3 amps making the MM30 a great choice for tougher cuts, but it will also help improve the speed of the cut being made. The accessory interface is magnetic - so when you're attaching the blade it's easier to use the wrench and keep the accessory in place. The wrench is stored conveniently on the front end of the tool. Finally, the MM30 is variable speed with a high end speed of 23,00 OSP. It's the fastest high end speed available.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The MM20 is our most economical oscillating tool. It will accept both Quick Fit and Dremel Universal fit accessories. With variable speed, you can start action in almost any material and increase or decrease speed as necessary to maintain optimal control. The MM20 uses an included hex wrench to secure accessories. The MM30 is a little more powerful, and includes an on-board wrench to secure accessories. And the MM40/45 provides an additional increase in power and uses a Quick Lock to secure accessories.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The MM40 and MM45 are our most full featured oscillating tools. The MM45 is sold exclusively at the Home Depot and is a 4.0 Amp motor. The MM40 is sold everywhere else. These tools do share some similarities including a speed range of 10,000 - 21,000 OSP, the "Quick-Lock feature which allows for tool-less accessory changing, and impressive motors that are designed to bring the speed of the tool back up to the selected setting. Keep in mind it should not be necessary to PUSH an oscillating tool during operation, rather guide it. And with the electronics in these tools, greater control makes the applications easier to tackle.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The Velocity is a whole different way of considering oscillating power. This tool oscillates a full 5 degrees with a powerful 7 amp motor making it 9 times faster than our original Multi-Max Oscillating tool.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
This tool is 7 amps. It is powerful and the accessories that come with the Velocity tool are designed for very heavy duty applications. You will find this tool is heavier than the other oscillating products in our line - you will also find that cutting something as thick as a 2 x 4 got a lot easier.
Yes they can be used on other oscillating tools - but the perfromance of these new blades is optimized on the Velocity tool.
This is a bi-metal blade.
This blade is bi-metal. It will work well on wood and metal as a result.
Try the MM485 Carbide blade!
No - but the control foot is there to help keep the blade at the best angle for fast, safe cutting.
Attachments
The attachment works with the following Dremel models: 3000, 4000, 4300, 7300-PGT, 7700, 8100, 8220
No, the attachment connects to the tool via the threaded nosecap that is on the front of some Dremel tools. The 7300-PGT is a unique product that contains this threaded Nosecap. The standard Dremel 7300 is a separate product and does not contain the threaded Nosecap feature.
The tool speed should not exceed 10,000 RPM. If you exceed this speed you risk causing discomfort to the animal because the nail heats up quickly at higher speeds.
The height adjustments allow the attachment to be used with a variety of Dremel rotary tools. Please set the height based upon the tool with which you wish to use the attachment.
If the EZ Lock™ mandrel does not fit into the collet, it is possible that the collet is stuck within the collet nut. If this happens, remove the collet nut from the tool by continuing to twist it counterclockwise. If the collet does not separate from the collet nut when removed from the tool, push the shank of the EZ Lock™ mandrel 6 into the hole in the collet nut 3. This should cause the collet 4 to pop out of the collet nut 3. Re-assemble by placing the collet 4 into the output shaft 8 and twisting the collet nut 3 clockwise over the collet to tighten it back onto the output shaft 8 (Fig. 3). Then proceed with installing the EZ Lock™ mandrel according to the instructions.
Before trimming your pet’s nails, you will need to identify the quick. The diagram below shows the basic anatomy of a pet’s toenail. The outer nail is hard and has no feeling because it has no nerve endings. The core of the nail is the quick. It is made up of tiny blood vessels and nerve endings and is very sensitive. The quick is a vein that “feeds” the toenail. Should you cut the quick while trimming a nail, the nail will start to bleed. Light colored nails are often transparent enough to allow you to see the quick’s pink core. Dark colored nails may not allow you to see where the quick is located. Pets may have both light and dark colored nails that allow you to estimate the length of the quick.
The diagram also shows an estimate of the proper angle at which to trim a pet’s nails. A rule of thumb for the proper angle is 45 degrees upwards from the bottom of the paw. This angle is what the guide on the attachment provides. The proper angle may vary according to the pet owner’s wishes or the pet’s unique anatomy. Trim nails so that they almost touch the ground when your pet is walking.
Grooming a pet’s nails for the first time can be a worrisome experience for both the pet and pet owner. Rest assured that nail grooming does not have to be a stressful experience. By starting early and considering grooming to be part of your pet’s training, your pet will grow used to the experience. First, train your pet to feel comfortable with their paws being touched and handled before exposing them to the rotary tool.
One way to do this is to massage their legs, paws, and individual toes for a few minutes at least once a day. Afterwards, create a positive association with this experience by rewarding your pet with its favorite snack. Next, help your pet grow gradually accustomed to the rotary tool. Let your pet sniff the tool while it is turned off. Then, while keeping the tool in your hand, let your pet listen to the sound the tool makes when it is turned on. Ideally, have your pet sit or lay on its side while the tool is in your hand and running. Gradually work up to having your pet’s toenails touch the rotating sanding disc for less than a second. Do not grind the nails yet; simply let your pet become familiar with the tool. Throughout the acclimation process, continue to praise your pet and reward good behavior with a snack. This process may take a couple of days or weeks.
The AT01-PGA Pet Grooming attachment can be used with the SD60-PGA pet grooming sanding discs. These specially designed discs are smaller in diameter than the similar EZ411SA, EZ412SA and EZ412SA sanding discs.
The Cutting Guide Attachment is designed to help the user maintain depth while using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).
The Grout Removal Attachment is angled to accommodate smoother, more efficient removal of a fine grout line - allowing you to carefully pull the grout removal accessory through the grout line. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same as the Grout Removal Attachment. The Multipurpose and Tile Cutting Guides are flat and manage depth at best when flat against the material. You can also use the Cutting Guide or Tile Guide in different directions. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.
First, unthread the housing cap from the end of the tool. The Circle Cutting Guide will thread onto the tool where the housing cap came off.
The attachment threads onto the end of most Dremel high speed rotary tools. However, if you have an older tool without threads or with different threads, it will not thread onto the older style tools. We do not have a way to safely adapt or retrofit the attachment to those tools.
The Cutting Guide is designed to maintain while cutting straight on or at a full 90°. The Grout Removal is angled and the grout removal bits require less side pressure when effectively cutting. Using them at a full 90° could snap the tip of the accessory. We do not recommend using the Grout Removal accessories with the standard Cutting Guide.
No. We recommend using the collet and collet nut that came with your tool. Those will lock onto the accessory more effectively and safely in this more aggressive application.
The accessories used with this guide are very aggressive. They are also spinning 30,000 to 35,000 rpm. The cut of the accessory will be rough and the cutting action could be difficult to control, depending on the material. Remember, with the tool spinning so fast, the greatest success will be found if you simply let the speed of the tool do the work and guide the tool. Be aware of the fact that wood will have grain and the grain can interfere with the cut. Tile, drywall and wood are all tough materials used in building, so there will be resistance to the cut. Before working on any work piece or project, try your application on some scrap. If you need a straight line, practice cutting a straight line with the same material as your work piece. Do not expect it to be perfect without taking the time to get comfortable with the application and the material. The tool and the accessory alone do not perform the work, your guiding hand will direct the tool.
It is always best to cut in a clockwise direction with any spiral saw, unless you are cutting out for an electrical box in drywall. Then we would recommend going in a counterclockwise direction with the Drywall (Guidepoint) bit. This accessory has a guidepoint on the end that will travel around the electrical box. By moving counterclockwise, the guidepoint will stay tighter around the electrical box.
Yes it is possible. This is a guide that will help manage depth, evenness of cut and stability.
The Multipurpose cutting bit (#561) with the Cutting Guide can be used on plywood. It will work on plywood 3/8'' thick. Keep in mind the cut will be rough, so there will be finish work to do after the cut is complete. Also keep in mind pushing the bit through the wood will not make a successful cut faster. It will really risk damaging the accessory and the cut you are making.
The Tile bit (#562) will work to cut tile that is suitable for a wall only. If the tile you are working with could be used on a floor or is suitable for foot traffic, the #562 cannot cut that. It can cut standard ceramic wall tile. This is generally white on the back and very high gloss color on the front. If you are trying to cut a hole in a standard ceramic wall tile to replace a broken piece, we recommend you stabilize the tile you will be cutting in a vise or holder of some type. Then start the cut with the accessory at 45° to the material - not 90°. Once the hole is started you can bring the accessory and tool to a full 90° to make the remainder of the cut. Remember the fluting is not fully on the tip of the accessory - so starting an aggressive cut of this nature with the tip will risk ruining the accessory.
Placement of the accessory in the tool is really important. Make sure you are locking the collet nut and collet down onto the SHANK of the accessory or the smooth part. The flutes are not designed to be clamped onto as the shank is much stronger and can withstand the applied pressure to guide a cut.
The Circle Cutting Guide is designed to help the user maintain depth while executing a circle cut out using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).
These attachment really work with the same basic accessories. The Circle Cutting Guide has a pivot point on it that will allow you to make a circle in your material or you can quickly convert the guide to be used to cut or channel a straight cut from the edge of the material. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same - while they help you manage the depth, cutting a circle with either of these two is done free-hand. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.
First, unthread the housing cap from the end of the tool. The Circle Cutting Guide will thread onto the tool where the housing cap came off.
The attachment threads onto the end of most Dremel high speed rotary tools. However, if you have an older tool without threads or with different threads, it will not thread onto the older style tools. We do not have a way to safely adapt or retrofit the attachment to those tools.
No. We recommend using the collet and collet nut that came with your tool. Those will lock onto the accessory more effectively and safely in this more aggressive application.
Placement of the accessory in the tool is really important. Make sure you are locking the collet nut and collet down onto the SHANK of the accessory or the smooth part. The flutes are not designed to be clamped onto as the shank is much stronger and can withstand the applied pressure to guide a cut.
In many instances users may find themselves quickly making a pilot hole and they are doing that by quickly making a hole into their material with the same accessory they will use to execute the cut. IF the pilot hole being made for the pivot point is larger or longer than that pivot point, the pivot point can actually shift of move while the cut is being made. If what you need is a more exacting circle, the easiest way to do that is to drill a 1/8'' diameter hole where the pivot point will be placed as you start the cut. This will stop the pivot point from moving or shifting during the cut.
The Right Angle Attachment is designed to get the user into tight areas or approach a material from an alternative direction to effectively cut, grind, polish, etc
This attachment will work on all Dremel high speed rotary tool with a threaded nosepiece (the vast majority). On the older tools the threads are different or do not exist. Unfortunately, we do not have a safe way to adapt this to older tools. If using this on a cordless tool, keep in mind that it does require a substantial amount of energy to run the Right Angle - the normal run time on any battery powered tool will be diminished if you are using the Right Angle Attachment.
To attach the Right Angle, from the tool remove the housing cap, the collet nut and then the collet. The collet and collet nut will go onto the nose of the right angle attachment to hold the accessory. On the metal threaded end of the high speed rotary tool, add the six sided nut (called a driver cap) that came with your Right Angle Attachment. It will thread on about half way. The six sided nut will have a square hole in it that will drive the shaft inside the Right Angle. You may have to turn the shaft of the high speed rotary tool slightly to get the square hole to marry up with the drive shaft. Once positioned, the Right Angle Attachment can be threaded onto the high speed rotary tool.
No, it is not safe.
Yes, the Right Angle Attachment will spin the same speed selected on the high speed rotary tool.
On the nose of the Right Angle Attachment there is a 1/8'' hole that can accept the shank end of an accessory. That will stop the shaft of the Right Angle from turning when tightening an accessory on the attachment. Be sure to remove the accessory used to hold the shaft before engaging the high speed rotary tool.
No. We do not recommend attempting to use accessories that would be classified as router bits. Those should only be used with attachments that can manage depth.
It is necessary to remove three items from the nose of the rotary tool: the housing cap, the collet nut, and the collet nut. First unthread the housing cap, then hold down the collet lock button and unthread the collet. Once removed from the tool, you will also see the collet. Remove the collet. Along with the Flex Shaft in the package you will find a six sided nut with a square hole (this is called a driver cap). It’s easier to see the square hole if you hold the nut up to the light and look through it. Again, hold the collet lock down and carefully thread the driver cap onto the bare metal threads of the high speed rotary tool where the collet and collet nut were removed. To make the Flex Shaft attachment functional, the collet should go into the end of the hand piece on the flexible shaft and the collet nut should go over the metal threading on the hand piece end of the flexible shaft. To tighten the collet nut on the hand piece, press the silver shaft lock button on the hand piece of the flexible shaft. This will stop the threaded area from turning as you tighten the accessory you want to use in the hand piece.
The purpose of the attachment is to get the weight of the tool away from the users hand and provide excellent control with a pencil like grip. This attachment is ideal for getting into tight areas and providing more control for the user. If you were doing fine engraving, this could provide the extra control and lessen the fatigue one could normally feel if the project were larger scale. If you were working on an engine, where things can get pretty tight, the flex shaft might be just what you need to get into the tight area
It does not necessarily have to hang. There is ribbing in the casing of the flex shaft that should allow you to simply secure your high speed rotary tool – however, if you are bending the flex shaft beyond tolerance, or keeping the nose of the tool below the hand piece, you may find the flex shaft will disengage. Our experience has been that the greatest success will come from keeping whatever tool is driving the flex shaft ABOVE the flex shaft. For example, if you were working underneath a sink and you were using the flex shaft to cut a pipe in a tight area, if you rest the tool on the floor and try to use the flex shaft in an upward position, it will probably disengage.
This attachment will not work on many of the older, discontinued tools that do not have a threaded nose piece. It does thread onto the majority of the Dremel high speed rotary tool models. Of the older tools without a threaded nose piece, there unfortunately is not way to safely adapt this attachment or modify the tool.
It will certainly attach to our our current cordless tools. One thing to keep in mind when using this attachment with a cordless tool – because the tool is running the entire shaft, the run time on any battery operated tool could be greatly diminished. If the majority of your applications will require the flex shaft, we recommend using a corded tool.
No. Keep in mind that the tool is driven by the motor of the high speed rotary tool and speed creates heat and friction and a number of other factors that play some role in dictating safe operating limits. A longer flex shaft won’t necessarily mean a better flex shaft. It could wear more quickly, run much hotter, and have a greater propensity to breaking.
Stay very aware of the bend you’re placing on the cable. Our recommendation is that you limit that bend so you reduce any resistance on the core running in the casing of the flex shaft. Also check the lubrication on the shaft – we recommend a light coating of flex shaft lubrication after the first 20 – 30 hours of use and then every 10 hours after that. (Check the manual for more complete instructions).
When you first connect the flex shaft to the tool, make sure it’s inserted into the hole of the driver cap. Then secure the flex shaft to the tool and plug the tool in. Keep the entire tool and flex shaft in a straight vertical line. (Hanging it on something is probably the easiest way to do this). Secure the hand piece, and turn the tool on and let the core of the flex shaft seat itself for about 30 seconds with no bends and no pressure on the spinning tool.
To reduce confusion, we include what you need to adapt the attachment to you tool – so we include the driver cap. The collet and collet nut cannot stay on the tool when the flex shaft is connected, those can be used on the hand piece of the flex shaft.
The core is designed to work for many hours of use, but heat and over bending can cause the flex shaft to become stressed. In some cases, if the core breaks, it can be replaced. Generally the break would need to be near the tool end of the cable – this would be obvious when you disassemble the configuration because a there would probably be a piece of the core in the driver cap and the rest will be in the casing of the flex shaft. If the core were to break near the hand piece end of the shaft, it could be very difficult to get the core out of the casing to replace it with a new one.
No, the hand piece on this flex shaft is permanently mounted.
Yes, you can use the #4486 Dremel Chuck with the Flex Shaft.
After the first 20 – 30 hours of use, and then again every 10 hours, put a thin coating of high temperature wheel bearing grease on the core. After removing the core of the flexible shaft from the casing, wipe it with a clean rage. Then place a small amount of lubricant on your fingertip and run it lightly up and down the core. Remove any excess lubricant. Too much lubricant will cause the hand piece to get terribly hot under normal use.
The closed guide is designed to be used with the number 932 grinding stone, and it will sharpen at a 30° angle. This guide will work most effectively on straight lawn mower blades. If you have a mulching blade or are cutting something with a curve – like a shovel, consider using the open guide. Maintaining the exact angle requires that you manage that.
The only accessory we recommend using in these attachment is the #932 stone
When placing the accessory in the tool, place it as deeply as possible before putting the attachment on the tool. If you have done that and the accessory is still hitting the attachment, please contact us. That should not happen.
No, the chuck is too big.
Simply unthread the end of the housing, (called a housing cap) on the end of the high speed rotary tool and the Chain Saw Sharpening Attachment will thread on in place of the housing cap.
This attachment will work on all Dremel high speed rotary tool with a threaded nosepiece (the vast majority). On the older tools the threads are different or do not exist. Unfortunately, we do not have a safe way to adapt this to older tools.
Dremel offers three different size sharpening stones that can be used with this attachment. We have a 5/32'' stone (#453 – bluish/green in color), a 3/16'' stone (#454 – brownish/red in color), and a 7/32'' stone (#455 – pink in color). These stones are sized in the same way that an actual sharpening file would be sized. When in doubt, refer to the specific owner’s manual for your chain/chain saw. That should be able to provide the proper recommendation for the size file /stone you will need to successfully sharpen your chain.
The stones are different sizes. This different sizing put each stone in a slightly different spot in relation to the guide on the tool. To eliminate the gaps, spacers are used on the guide to make up the difference.
The gauge measures the distance of space between the guide and the stone. The screws that hold the clamp and guide together are actually threaded into elongated holes so the guide can be adjusted. The amount of play is about the difference between side 1 and side 2 of the gauge and placing the stone with no gauge requirement
A sharp chain will throw chips.
The cutting part of the chain saw blade is the top of the tooth and no the inside curved portion close to the bar. Be sure to lift up on the attachment to sharpen the underside of the top part of the chain saw tooth. Lifting upward during sharpening will provide a superior cut and high satisfaction
There are some accessories in our line that require depth management and control for safety reasons and really for successful use, among those are router bits. The purpose of the Plunge Router Attachment is to provide optimal control of the tool when using a very specialized accessory.
For complete instructions - please refer to the owner’s manual. The tool is held in the Plunge Router Attachment with an overthrow nut on the attachment. Remove the housing cap on the end of the high speed rotary tool and place it loosely in the center of the attachment. On the attachment turn the overthrow nut so it meets the threading on the housing of the high speed rotary tool. As the threading snugs the tool in the attachment, make sure it is lined up properly - as the overthrow nut is completely secured, any play that exists between the tool and the attachment will diminish.
It depends. Choose the Plunge Router Attachment when you need to see the complete result of the accessory on the material. An example would be when you are routing a name or word into a piece of wood. You need to see what is going on. If the piece you are working with is small and your interest is in putting a decorative edge on the piece, then your greatest opportunity for success is to keep the tool stationary in the Shaper/Router Table and control the work piece.
In this case we would recommend that. It may be possible to access the shaft lock button once the tool is in place, but it is easier to that with the tool out of the attachment.
First and foremost, always clamp your work - secure it. Then, keep the following in mind - routing with a high speed rotary tool is different than using a full powered router. The tools are several amps different in power. The Dremel High Speed Rotary Tools and the router bits in our accessory line are designed for light duty routing. If the edge or channel you are routing is deep or a hard wood like oak, consider dividing that depth into thirds and make three passes to achieve the best results. The depth of the routing can be adjusted by moving the adjustment knob on the back of the attachment.
Consider what you are routing: if you have scrap material, we always encourage you to try that first. If the material smokes, the tool bogs down, or you start to feel the tool pulling or straining in the attachment, chances are you are trying to take more on that pass than the tool and the accessory can tolerate. If you have scrap material, consider testing the tolerance with that, but keep in mind you do not want to damage the accessory by forcing too much material through it at one time.
The router bits in our line are 1/8 shank and they are all made of high speed steel. This means they will work with wood and material softer than wood.
There are several things to consider the depth of what is being routed, the hardness of the material, and the rate of feed of the material into the router bit. Routing is a high speed application. It will generate a lot of heat. Too much heat can ruin the temper on the accessory. Consider taking the depth of cut and dividing it by three to make three passes for a more successful finish. If you are material is hard wood, consider if it might be beneficial to make a 4th pass. Then also manage the feed rate if you are forcing the material through the accessory chances are your results will be sketchy in places and burned in others. A slow, steady feed rate will get the best results. You will not want to hold the work piece in one place, but you also do not want to jam it through like the accessory is a toothed saw blade it is not. A slow steady rate, a calculated number of passes, and consideration for the total depth you want to achieve will all help extend the life of the accessory and provide greater success.
If you are routing a decorative edge on the surface of your project, the attachment will work best with a piloted router bit like the #615. The pilot on the bit (a pilot is a guide section of bearing on the end of the router bit designed to follow the edge of the wood) works to follow the exact edge of the wood while the cutting is taking place. Piloted bits will not work down the center of the material to rout a channel. The pilot will burn or break off. If routing a decorative edge, use the attachment without the edge guide. If you are routing a straight channel or line 2 - 3 inches from the edge of the work piece, use the edge guide and a straight router bit like the #650, #652 or #654. The edge guide will keep your line a consistent distance from the edge.
Certain circular cuts can be made using the edge cutting bracket. Radii for 1-11/16'' to 4'' can be done. Remove the edge guide and attach he edge guide bracket to the guide rods. Use the finishing nail provided as a compass point. Set the edge guide bracket for the desired radius. Place the nail through the hole in the bracket and place the nail at the center of the desired radius to be cut. (The nail needs to be pounded into the subject material to act as a compass point). Once secured the router will easily make a circle.
The router bits are very sharp. They work on a variety of woods but several factors alter their effectiveness. The speed at which you are routing will make a difference, so generally, do not force the tool through the material too quickly. Another cause can simply be the kind of wood being used. Soft woods are more fibrous and the fibers can break, causing a ragged appearance. Hard wood is denser and more likely to produce a smooth cut. There may be some finish work on routing. For example more fibrous woods may require some sanding. Try using a flapwheel or a finishing buff. They are designed to help make short work of finish sanding.
We make nine different router bits including a six piece set. If you cannot find what you are looking for on-line, in a major home center or hardware store near you, you can purchase directly through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.
The Grout Removal Attachment is designed to help the user maintain depth and stay in a grout line when removing grout.
The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same as the Grout Removal Attachment. The Multipurpose and Tile Cutting Guides are flat and manage depth at best when flat against the material. The Grout Removal Attachment is angled to accommodate smoother, more efficient removal of a fine grout line. You can also using the Cutting Guide or Tile Guide in different directions. For the greatest success with grout removal, we recommend only PULLING this attachment - never push it. Pushing this attachment in the material will damage and/or likely break the grout removal bit.
The Grout Removal Attachment threads onto the end of all Dremel High Speed Rotary tools with a threaded nose piece (the threading is beneath the housing cap). Some of our older tools are certainly still in circulation - they do not have a threaded nosepiece, or they may actually have a different thread. As a result, it is not possible for it to fit onto some of the previously manufactured tools. We have not found a safe way to adapt that fit to the older tools.
This will depend on a few factors: The age and hardness of the grout being removed will factor in, along with the depth of the removal and the speed and force at which the tool is moved. Here are some tips for getting the most out of the accessory: Grout removal is generally a mid-range to high speed application - start at a moderate speed of 18,000 to 20,000 rpm. This could be the optimal speed for accessory life and control. Do not force the tool through the grout, just guide it. Trying to remove too much depth in one pass will put so much pressure on the tip that it will break. Take about 1/8'' in depth and if more removal is required, move through the grout line a second time.
The accessory is really sharp, but it can fracture if dropped. It is also important to manage the depth being removed and the feed rate. These two factors together, if not managed with some moderation could cause the accessory to break or wear rapidly.
The tabs or nubs on the surface of the guide are designed to help keep the user in the grout line during removal.
While you can remove a small amount of grout, this accessory is not designed to clean grout, it is designed to remove grout.
Start with a moderate speed - practicing grout removal is less likely than being able to try other applications. Start with the moderate speed and if the consistency and hardness of the grout allows you to increase speed, do that. If not, stay at a moderate speed.
This is a good question: if you have a floor full of grout to remove, you could certainly accomplish it with a high speed rotary tool and this accessory and guide. You may need multiple bits to get that accomplished. A single bit is really designed for small repair jobs. If you have a lot grout to remove, you could also consider using one of our oscillating tools. That may be faster if you have greater volumes of grout to remove.
There are some accessories in our line that require depth management and control for safety reasons and really for successful use, among those are router bits. The purpose of the Shaper/Router Table is to completely hold the tool so the user controls the work piece.
It depends. Choose the Plunge Router Attachment when you need to see the complete result of the accessory on the material. An example would be when you are routing a name or word into a piece of wood. You need to see what is going on. If the piece you are working with is small and your interest is in putting a decorative edge on the piece, then your greatest opportunity for success is to keep the tool stationary in the Shaper/Router Table and control the work piece.
To be held in the most current version of this attachment, the housing cap comes off the tool, and the tool is placed into the holder and an over-throw nut on the tool holder of the attachment threads onto the tool to hold it in place. By loosening and lowering the tool holder on the attachment, getting things lined up correctly is easier, so do that first. Then thread the tool into the holder so the threads on the housing of the tool are connecting with the over throw nut. Make sure things are lining up correctly and once you feel certain that is happening, tighten the tool in place with the large wrench so it is tight. Then you can raise the tool back up so the accessory will be coming through the table.
In this case we would recommend that. It may be possible to access the shaft lock button once the tool is in place, but it is easier to that with the tool out of the attachment.
If you are routing a decorative edge on the surface of your project, the attachment will work best with a piloted router bit like the #615. The pilot on the bit (a pilot is a guide section of bearing on the end of the router bit designed to follow the edge of the wood) works to follow the exact edge of the wood while the cutting is taking place. Piloted bits will not work down the center of the material to rout a channel. The pilot will burn or break off. If routing a decorative edge, use the attachment without the edge guide. If you are routing a straight channel or line 2 - 3 inches from the edge of the work piece, use the edge guide and a straight router bit like the #650, #652 or #654. The edge guide will keep your line a consistent distance from the edge.
First and foremost, always clamp your work - secure it. Then, keep the following in mind - routing with a high speed rotary tool is different than using a full powered router. The tools are several amps different in power. The Dremel High Speed Rotary Tools and the router bits in our accessory line are designed for light duty routing. If the edge or channel you are routing is deep or a hard wood like oak, consider dividing that depth into thirds and make three passes to achieve the best results. The depth of the routing can be adjusted by moving the adjustment knob on the back of the attachment.
Consider what you are routing: if you have scrap material, we always encourage you to try that first. If the material smokes, the tool bogs down, or you start to feel the tool pulling or straining in the attachment, chances are you are trying to take more on that pass than the tool and the accessory can tolerate. If you have scrap material, consider testing the tolerance with that, but keep in mind you do not want to damage the accessory by forcing too much material through it at one time.
The router bits in our line are 1/8 shank and they are all made of high speed steel. This means they will work with wood and material softer than wood.
There are several things to consider the depth of what is being routed, the hardness of the material, and the rate of feed of the material into the router bit. Routing is a high speed application. It will generate a lot of heat. Too much heat can ruin the temper on the accessory. Consider taking the depth of cut and dividing it by three to make three passes for a more successful finish. If you are material is hard wood, consider if it might be beneficial to make a 4th pass. Then also manage the feed rate if you are forcing the material through the accessory chances are your results will be sketchy in places and burned in others. A slow, steady feed rate will get the best results. You will not want to hold the work piece in one place, but you also do not want to jam it through like the accessory is a toothed saw blade it is not. A slow steady rate, a calculated number of passes, and consideration for the total depth you want to achieve will all help extend the life of the accessory and provide greater success.
The router bits are very sharp. They work on a variety of woods but several factors alter their effectiveness. The speed at which you are routing will make a difference, so generally, do not force the tool through the material too quickly. Another cause can simply be the kind of wood being used. Soft woods are more fibrous and the fibers can break, causing a ragged appearance. Hard wood is denser and more likely to produce a smooth cut. There may be some finish work on routing. For example more fibrous woods may require some sanding. Try using a flapwheel or a finishing buff. They are designed to help make short work of finish sanding.
Yes. An extension or larger table can be made to work with the Shaper/Router Table. Complete instructions and illustrations are available in the owner’s manual.
We make nine different router bits including a six piece set. If you cannot find what you are looking for on-line, in a major home center or hardware store near you, you can purchase directly through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.