What is the purpose of the Cutting Guide Attachment?

The Cutting Guide Attachment is designed to help the user maintain depth while using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).

What’s the difference between the Dremel the 7700, the 7300, and the 7000?

The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.

What is the difference between the 565 MultiPurpose Cutting Kit, 566 Tile Cutting Kit and the Circle Cutting Guide?

These attachment really work with the same basic accessories. The Circle Cutting Guide has a pivot point on it that will allow you to make a circle in your material or you can quickly convert the guide to be used to cut or channel a straight cut from the edge of the material. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same - while they help you manage the depth, cutting a circle with either of these two is done free-hand. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.

What is the difference between the Grout Removal Attachment and 565 MultiPurpose Cutting Kit and the the 566 Tile Cutting Kit?

The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same as the Grout Removal Attachment. The Multipurpose and Tile Cutting Guides are flat and manage depth at best when flat against the material. The Grout Removal Attachment is angled to accommodate smoother, more efficient removal of a fine grout line. You can also using the Cutting Guide or Tile Guide in different directions. For the greatest success with grout removal, we recommend only PULLING this attachment - never push it. Pushing this attachment in the material will damage and/or likely break the grout removal bit.

I am buying a rotary tool for the first time or for someone else and I am not sure this one is the right choice. How do I know what to get?

This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!

Do you have a chart that shows all of the accessories that Dremel offers?

Yes, click here to view our Dremel accessory guide

Do I need specific gas to refill my Dremel butane tool?

The gas used for the Versatip and Versaflame is regular butane gas. This is the same gas that is used for cigarette lighters. Dremel does not sell butane fuel. Butane can be easily found at Home Centers and Hardware dealers. Follow the instruction manual on how to refill the tank.

My Versatip is not functioning correctly – You can hear the gas flowing when you switch the tool on but it does not ignite.

You can hear the gas flowing when you switch the tool on but it does not ignite. This could be because there is no spark coming from the Versatip. In order to correct this please ensure the Metal Flame Guard is correctly and tightly secured. This will ensure connection to the metal pin which generates the spark. Do not touch the Versatip until it has been cooled down completely.

What accessories actually fit in the Engraver?

There are only two accessories that can be used in the Engraver – the carbide tip #9924 and the diamond tip #9929. Accessories that work in the high speed rotary tool line are not suitable for use in this impact engraver.

What’s the difference between the diamond and the carbide point?

The carbide point will work well for general purpose engraving in most materials. If you have an application that will require continuous work or involves much more brittle material like glass, the diamond tip is designed to handle harder loads for a longer time. It will provide the same engraving performance but will withstand harder materials and/or longer use on ordinary materials.

How do I change the tip?

There is a little set screw on the side of the tool where the point meets the housing of the tool. By loosening that set screw, it is very easy to replace the tip.

What does the dial on the engraver do?

It increases or decreases the impact of the engraving tip.

Can I use both plain end and pin end blades on the MotoSaw?

No. The MotoSaw does require use of the blades specifically designed for the MotoSaw. They are all pin-end blades and they are 4” long. Standard scroll saw blades are 5” length.

What can I cut with the MotoSaw?

With the different blades you can cut wood, plastic, and light gauge metal. The MS50 and MS52 will cut wood and plastic in the standard position on the saw. The MS51 is a side cutting blade that allows for greater widths to be cut with the teeth of the blade mounted to the side. The MS53 is designed to cut light gauge metal.

What’s the advantage of this saw over a larger scroll saw?

We don’t really compare this to a standard scroll saw – standard scroll saws take a variety of blades and they also take up a lot of space. They are often weigh more than 40 pounds without a leg set. The MotoSaw is small, compact and the saw itself weighs less than 3 pounds. Most cutting will be done with the saw mounted in the table – and that can go on a variety of table widths. In the event you have to cut something in an awkward spot, the saw will remove from the base and be taken to the material being cut. The placement and tensioning of the blades is simple and easy – there’s no guesswork. And when you’re done using the saw you can put it all back in the case and store the saw out of the way.

The blade isn’t really cutting straight – should I be doing something different?

Several things can contribute to the cut of the blade. One of the contributors is the process by which blades ae manufactured. The blades are actually stamped out and tend to be heavier to one side. The blade will have natural pull to the right as a result. Keep in mind that wood will also have some defined grain running through it. The grain can be filled with sap or heavy fiber and cutting straight can be challenging. It will be important to compensate for both of these factors – even if you’re using the miter guide. With a heavier grained wood, it’s not impossible that you would have to position that material at an angle to execute a straight cut.

What thickness can I cut with this saw?

On softer wood you can cut up to ½” thick. Harder wood up to ¼”.

I am really having a great deal of trouble controlling the material while cutting. The blade seems to be grabbing it. Is there a way to better control that?

If control had been easy and now it’s not and you recently changed a blade, make sure you installed the blade with the teeth pointing DOWN. The blade cuts on the down stroke. If the development is recent and you’ve changed grade of wood or thickness, keep in mind you will have to adjust your feed rate. Make sure you place your drop foot just above you work. That will help with control directly surrounding the blade.

I am getting cut marks in my table – Why is that happening and how can I stop it?

We call those “hurry marks.” What’s really happening is during the cutting process the feed rate is just heavy enough that the blade is bowing back into the table and slicing into the table a little at a time. We encourage the following – pushing harder will not make the saw cut faster. If you want to cut faster, increase the speed on the saw. You greatest opportunity for success will be developing a moderate feed rate that does not put excess pressure on the blade. A moderate feed rate will extend the life of the blade, the saw, and will produce better results.

How hot does the tool get?

The tool heats to a maximum temperature of 1050°.

Can the temperature be regulated with a table top rheostat?

Yes, you could decrease the temperature with an independent controller. You cannot increase it.

Can the VersaTip hot tool cut foam?

With the hot knife attachment (#499), you will find a combination of cutting and melting through the material.

Where can I get extra tips for this tool?

Those are available through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635 .

The threaded part of the tip broke off in my VersaTip, what do I do?

Contact us or send that in to our Service Center. The tips are designed to withstand the higher 1000°+ temperature of the VersaTip. However those will wear and will require replacement. If the tip seems difficult to thread in and out of the nose of the tool, it’s a sign that it could be time to replace.

What is the difference between the Dremel Series 100 and the Series 200?

The Series 100 is a single speed tool. The Series 200 is a two speed tool.

Does this tool have replaceable motor brushes?

Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.

Is the keyless chuck something that can be finger tightened or do I still have to use the wrench?

There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.

If I have the keyless chuck, why would I ever consider using a collet or a collet nut?

This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.

It seems like I'm getting wobble or run-out from my tool? What's causing that?

There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.

When I work with an attachment, should I be placing the accessory BEFORE I fully connect that attachment?

There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.

Can the Chuck be used with all of the attachments?

No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.

Can you use all of the attachments with the Series 100?

No – we exclude the Grout Removal Attachment because the accessory should operate between speeds of 18,000 – 20,000 rpm. Also, the A550 Shield comes with a brush – so while the attachment will fit, keep in mind we do not recommend using that brush on the Series 100.

Is the Series 100 better suited for one application over the other?

The Series 100 is really designed for Cutting, Carving, Sanding, Engraving. . . and applications that require high speed. If you know your application could require more varying speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the Series 200, 3000, 4000 or 4200.

I am buying a rotary tool for the first time or for someone else and I'm not sure this one is the right choice; how do I know what to get?

This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.

It seems like my tool gets hot whenever I use it; how can I avoid that?

There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.

How can I get more life out of the accessories?

The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.

My shaft lock button doesn't seem to hold the shaft completely any longer, and I'm having trouble changing my accessories. What should I do?

The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.

What’s the difference between the Dremel the 7700, the 7300, and the 7000?

The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.

Do these tools have replaceable motor brushes?

No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.

Do these tools work with all of the accessories in your line?

These tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple – even the fastest of these tools – the model 7700 only operates at 20,000 RPM. Some of those more aggressive applications should really be done with a higher speed. You can use cutting wheels with these tools but cutting is an aggressive application – you may find the process will take longer, wear the battery down faster and wear the accessory out more quickly. Most of the accessories you will use will have a 1/8” shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8” shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

How will I know if I have chosen the correct collet for my shank size?

Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.

FAQ | Dremel

Q: What's the difference between the Dremel 3000 and the Series 200 and Series 100?

These tools all share some similarities, but the 3000 provides the user with a click-and-set variable speed control. The Series 100 is a single speed tool and the Series 200 is a two speed tool. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 3000 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The variable speed option allows the user to take the speed down a little further when using accessories that have a speed limit – like a brush or a buff.

General

The Versatip is used for soft soldering applications and pyrography. The pen-shape on this tool makes it very comfortable to use for precise jobs. It also includes more tips than the Versaflame, so it can be used for broader applications. The Versaflame is used for more general soldering work. It can be used as a soldering iron as well as an open flame stationary torch.

Both tools can reach a temperature of up to 1200°C, depending on the accessory used. The difference between the 2 tools is that the Versaflame has a higher energy output, so you can heat-up more material in a shorter time.

This could be because the nozzle has become blocked by liquid butane. The most common cause of a blocked nozzle is overfilling of the tank. The tank is full when liquid butane gas escapes from the filling valve. Once this happens please stop refilling the gas to avoid overfilling of the tank. Please refer to the (RE)FILLING THE TANK section of the Versatip manual for more details.

If the problem persists, unscrew the Metal Flame Guard. Then unscrew the Ceramic Insulator. Remove the Nozzle with a set of pliers and allow the liquid butane inside the nozzle to vaporize by holding the nozzle for 30 second and then reassemble the components.

If a problem persists beyond these suggestions, please contact us so we can provide guidance on getting your tool to us so we can take a closer look at it.

Rotary

The Series 100 is a constant speed tool – 35,000 RPM. The tool itself is an economical option that allows the use of accessories that require a high speed. A key application that generally requires high speed is a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. Using that at a slow speed will make the accessory less effective. There are high speed rotary tool accessories in our line that we do not recommend using with the Series 100 because the accessories require a lower speed for safe operation. Always check the speed rating on an accessory before using it in the tool.

The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.

First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.

No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.

Saws

Oscillating

Compared to the MM20, Dremel MM30 provides increased oscillation at a total of 3.2 degrees and a more powerful motor at a total of 3.3 amps making the MM30 a great choice for tougher cuts, but it will also help improve the speed of the cut being made. The accessory interface is magnetic - so when you're attaching the blade it's easier to use the wrench and keep the accessory in place. The wrench is stored conveniently on the front end of the tool. Finally, the MM30 is variable speed with a high end speed of 23,00 OSP. It's the fastest high end speed available.

Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.

Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.

Attachments

If the EZ Lock™ mandrel does not fit into the collet, it is possible that the collet is stuck within the collet nut. If this happens, remove the collet nut from the tool by continuing to twist it counterclockwise. If the collet does not separate from the collet nut when removed from the tool, push the shank of the EZ Lock™ mandrel 6 into the hole in the collet nut 3. This should cause the collet 4 to pop out of the collet nut 3. Re-assemble by placing the collet 4 into the output shaft 8 and twisting the collet nut 3 clockwise over the collet to tighten it back onto the output shaft 8 (Fig. 3). Then proceed with installing the EZ Lock™ mandrel according to the instructions.

Before trimming your pet’s nails, you will need to identify the quick. The diagram below shows the basic anatomy of a pet’s toenail. The outer nail is hard and has no feeling because it has no nerve endings. The core of the nail is the quick. It is made up of tiny blood vessels and nerve endings and is very sensitive. The quick is a vein that “feeds” the toenail. Should you cut the quick while trimming a nail, the nail will start to bleed. Light colored nails are often transparent enough to allow you to see the quick’s pink core. Dark colored nails may not allow you to see where the quick is located. Pets may have both light and dark colored nails that allow you to estimate the length of the quick.

The diagram also shows an estimate of the proper angle at which to trim a pet’s nails. A rule of thumb for the proper angle is 45 degrees upwards from the bottom of the paw. This angle is what the guide on the attachment provides. The proper angle may vary according to the pet owner’s wishes or the pet’s unique anatomy. Trim nails so that they almost touch the ground when your pet is walking.

FAQ

Top Frequently Asked Questions

General

Rotary

Saws

Oscillating

Attachments