The tool heats to a maximum temperature of 1050°.
Those are available through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.
The Versatip is used for soft soldering applications and pyrography. The pen-shape on this tool makes it very comfortable to use for precise jobs. It also includes more tips than the Versaflame, so it can be used for broader applications. The Versaflame is used for more general soldering work. It can be used as a soldering iron as well as an open flame stationary torch.
Both tools can reach a temperature of up to 1200°C, depending on the accessory used. The difference between the 2 tools is that the Versaflame has a higher energy output, so you can heat-up more material in a shorter time.
No. The MotoSaw does require use of the blades specifically designed for the MotoSaw. They are all pin-end blades and they are 4” long. Standard scroll saw blades are 5” length.
The gas used for the Versatip and Versaflame is regular butane gas. This is the same gas that is used for cigarette lighters. Dremel does not sell butane fuel. Butane can be easily found at Home Centers and Hardware dealers. Follow the instruction manual on how to refill the tank.
Yes, click here to view our Dremel accessory guide
The gas used for the Versatip and Versaflame is regular butane gas. This is the same gas that is used for cigarette lighters. Dremel does not sell butane fuel. Butane can be easily found at Home Centers and Hardware dealers. Follow the instruction manual on how to refill the tank.
The Versatip is used for soft soldering applications and pyrography. The pen-shape on this tool makes it very comfortable to use for precise jobs. It also includes more tips than the Versaflame, so it can be used for broader applications. The Versaflame is used for more general soldering work. It can be used as a soldering iron as well as an open flame stationary torch.
Both tools can reach a temperature of up to 1200°C, depending on the accessory used. The difference between the 2 tools is that the Versaflame has a higher energy output, so you can heat-up more material in a shorter time.
You can hear the gas flowing when you switch the tool on but it does not ignite.
This could be because there is no spark coming from the Versatip. In order to correct this please ensure the Metal Flame Guard is correctly and tightly secured. This will ensure connection to the metal pin which generates the spark. Do not touch the Versatip until it has been cooled down completely.
This could be because the nozzle has become blocked by liquid butane. The most common cause of a blocked nozzle is overfilling of the tank. The tank is full when liquid butane gas escapes from the filling valve. Once this happens please stop refilling the gas to avoid overfilling of the tank. Please refer to the (RE)FILLING THE TANK section of the Versatip manual for more details.
If the problem persists, unscrew the Metal Flame Guard. Then unscrew the Ceramic Insulator. Remove the Nozzle with a set of pliers and allow the liquid butane inside the nozzle to vaporize by holding the nozzle for 30 second and then reassemble the components.
If a problem persists beyond these suggestions, please contact us so we can provide guidance on getting your tool to us so we can take a closer look at it.
There are only two accessories that can be used in the Engraver – the carbide tip #9924 and the diamond tip #9929. Accessories that work in the high speed rotary tool line are not suitable for use in this impact engraver.
The carbide point will work well for general purpose engraving in most materials. If you have an application that will require continuous work or involves much more brittle material like glass, the diamond tip is designed to handle harder loads for a longer time. It will provide the same engraving performance but will withstand harder materials and/or longer use on ordinary materials.
There is a little set screw on the side of the tool where the point meets the housing of the tool. By loosening that set screw, it is very easy to replace the tip.
It increases or decreases the impact of the engraving tip.
No. The MotoSaw does require use of the blades specifically designed for the MotoSaw. They are all pin-end blades and they are 4” long. Standard scroll saw blades are 5” length.
With the different blades you can cut wood, plastic, and light gauge metal. The MS50 and MS52 will cut wood and plastic in the standard position on the saw. The MS51 is a side cutting blade that allows for greater widths to be cut with the teeth of the blade mounted to the side. The MS53 is designed to cut light gauge metal.
We don’t really compare this to a standard scroll saw – standard scroll saws take a variety of blades and they also take up a lot of space. They are often weigh more than 40 pounds without a leg set. The MotoSaw is small, compact and the saw itself weighs less than 3 pounds. Most cutting will be done with the saw mounted in the table – and that can go on a variety of table widths. In the event you have to cut something in an awkward spot, the saw will remove from the base and be taken to the material being cut. The placement and tensioning of the blades is simple and easy – there’s no guesswork. And when you’re done using the saw you can put it all back in the case and store the saw out of the way.
Several things can contribute to the cut of the blade. One of the contributors is the process by which blades ae manufactured. The blades are actually stamped out and tend to be heavier to one side. The blade will have natural pull to the right as a result. Keep in mind that wood will also have some defined grain running through it. The grain can be filled with sap or heavy fiber and cutting straight can be challenging. It will be important to compensate for both of these factors – even if you’re using the miter guide. With a heavier grained wood, it’s not impossible that you would have to position that material at an angle to execute a straight cut.
On softer wood you can cut up to ½” thick. Harder wood up to ¼”.
If control had been easy and now it’s not and you recently changed a blade, make sure you installed the blade with the teeth pointing DOWN. The blade cuts on the down stroke. If the development is recent and you’ve changed grade of wood or thickness, keep in mind you will have to adjust your feed rate. Make sure you place your drop foot just above you work. That will help with control directly surrounding the blade.
We call those “hurry marks.” What’s really happening is during the cutting process the feed rate is just heavy enough that the blade is bowing back into the table and slicing into the table a little at a time. We encourage the following – pushing harder will not make the saw cut faster. If you want to cut faster, increase the speed on the saw. You greatest opportunity for success will be developing a moderate feed rate that does not put excess pressure on the blade. A moderate feed rate will extend the life of the blade, the saw, and will produce better results.
The tool heats to a maximum temperature of 1050°.
Yes, you could decrease the temperature with an independent controller. You cannot increase it.
With the hot knife attachment (#499), you will find a combination of cutting and melting through the material.
Those are available through Dremel by calling 1-800-437-3635.
Contact us or send that in to our Service Center. The tips are designed to withstand the higher 1000°+ temperature of the VersaTip. However those will wear and will require replacement. If the tip seems difficult to thread in and out of the nose of the tool, it’s a sign that it could be time to replace.
Yes, the 2.0AH B815 & 3.0AH B816 batteries can be used in the 8240, 8250 and 8260 models.
The tool is 12V Max. This means the peak voltage of the battery pack is 12V, the standard voltage is 10.8V. This is inline with how power tool brands communicate 10.8V battery packs which peak at 12V.
The 8240 lasts approximately for 10 minutes in heavy duty applications and 20 minutes in light duty applications. Keep in mind, however, that the runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on several different factors, including the type of application, accessory, material, speed, and technique used. The estimates provided are based on average use and actual runtimes may vary.
Light Duty Applications:
Heavy Duty Applications:
We recommend using Dremel batteries and chargers for your Dremel tools. You should submit your Dremel batteries and chargers to a Dremel authorized service center for repair.
No, the 8240 is not compatible with Dremel 12V battery pack model numbers 875, 880, B812 & B814 which are intended for use with the Dremel 8220. The B815 12V battery pack is intended for use with the 8240 and not compatible with the Dremel 8220.
Yes, the 8240 has three LED battery life indicators which will illuminate as follows:
Insert your B815-01 battery pack into your GAL12V-20 charger. Once the battery pack is inserted into the charger a blinking green light on the charger will indicate the battery is charging, a solid green light will indicate a fully charged battery pack. For complete charging instructions please refer to the Operating / Safety Instructions.
The Dremel 12V Max batteries B815 & B816 are the only batteries qualified by Dremel to use with the 12V 8240 / 8250 / 8260 tools. They are compatible with the Bosch BAT414, BAT415 & GBA12V30 batteries as indicated on the battery/charger compatibility chart included with the tools, but these tools are not part of the Bosch professional system. We recommend using Dremel batteries and chargers for your Dremel tools
The main difference between the 8250 & 8260 to the 8240 is the brushless motor (used in 8250 & 8260) which is more efficient than the brushed 8240 motor. The brushless 8250 & 8260 motor helps to provide more power, more runtime and more speed vs the 8240s brushed motor. The 8240 does still provide a high level of power, performance and runtime at a lower retail price than the 8250 & 8260.
The core tool features and benefits between the 8250 and 8260 are the same (100% more runtime, 20% more power, 20% faster speed of cut). The 8260 is a smart tool with connectivity benefits when connected to the Dremel App. These connectivity benefits provide tool performance insights, accessory & material guidance and more. The 8260 also has an LED illuminated Dremel logo.
Approximately 65 minutes.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
All of the Dremel High Speed Rotary Tool Attachments are compatible with the 8220 but you may experience reduced run times on the battery when using certain attachments.
The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8220 shares many of those corded features on a cordless tool, but remember, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.
Three solid lights means the battery is fully charged and ready to go. Two lights indicates the battery has 50% of the remaining charge. One flashing light means the tool is about to turn off. Three flashing lights indicate the tool is too hot for use, let it cool down. Three side to side lights indicate the battery is too low to run at all. A recharge is necessary.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.
Yes
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
The 8220, 8100, ad 8050 all share some similarities, but the 8220 kicks control up a notch or two over the 8100 and 8050. They are all powered by lithium ion power, the 8220 is a 12V Max battery pack that is removable from the unit, the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8220 can work with our older high performance attachments. The 8220 features a speed slide that is separated from the on/off switch. The benefit for any user is that when you find that sweet spot for speed, they will be able to get back to that pretty quickly. The on/off switch on the 8220 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.
No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
The high performance motor will allow the tool to maintain speed under load/in use. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It is important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
Electronic monitoring provides soft start that reduces the stress on the tool that can occur from a high torque start.
This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. Put the battery into the tool, turn it on and if you have three lights, there is no need to charge anything. On the charger itself, if the indicator light is off, it means the charger is not hooked up to or receiving or any power. IF the green indicator light on the charger is blinking, the battery pack is being fast charged and that will stop automatically when the battery is fully charged. It will not take more than an hour. The green indicator light is on solid, the charger is getting power, but one of the following is also taking place: 1) The battery pack is not inserted, 2) The battery pack is already fully charged, 3) The battery pack is too hot or cold for fast charging.
Yes
The 8100 and 8050 hare some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power: the 8100 is an 8V Max removable battery pack and the 8050 is a tool contained 8V max battery. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8100 features a speed slide that is built into the on/off switch.
This tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exception are router bits, we do not recommend using those without the attachment, and we do not recommend this tool with those attachments. The accessories will work. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
No, it is not recommended for use with the 231 Shaper Router Table, the 335 Plunge Router Attachments, or the older high performance attachments. Keep in mind the tool is cordless, you may experience reduced run times on the battery when using certain attachments.
The tool is cordless, so the greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible, like sharpening a chain saw in the woods, or out on your ATV. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220, so it may be more comfortable in your hand.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8100 is a lighter duty option, the battery will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
The key difference is that the 7700 (7.2 V) and 7300 (4.8 V) both come with rechargeable ni-cad battery packs. The 7000 works on alkaline batteries that you supply.
No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
These tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple – even the fastest of these tools – the model 7700 only operates at 20,000 RPM. Some of those more aggressive applications should really be done with a higher speed. You can use cutting wheels with these tools but cutting is an aggressive application – you may find the process will take longer, wear the battery down faster and wear the accessory out more quickly. Most of the accessories you will use will have a 1/8” shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8” shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
No – these tools are all limited. We do not recommend attempting use of the 7000 or 7300 with any attachments. The 7700 is only recommended to be used with the A550 (Sheild), A576 (Sanding and Grinding Guide), 675 Sharpening Guide, 678-01 (Circle Guide), and A679-02 (Sharpening Attachment kit).
The tools are cordless – and they are all small. So they’re a great option for working out small project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you’re using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply isn’t possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have – but they also have run time limits. These tools are small and are really designed for light-duty applications.
This is a great question. While we can’t really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – and a tool with a cord - they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The ni-cad and alkaline cordless tools are a much lighter duty option, the batteries will need to be recharged or replaced. If you’re a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
When plugged in, the green LED light indicates connection has been made and the battery is charging. The green should blink while the battery charges, the green light will be solid when the battery is fully charged.
We recommend first charging the battery overnight – but normally it will take 3 hours.
A great question and often a point of frustration for users. Good habits can stretch the life of the battery. . . Keep in mind that with the first charge, the battery will only accept about 80% of its maximum charge. So it may take a few charge/discharge cycles to get the battery to a full capacity. Consider discharging the battery to a very limited use capacity before recharging. (It’s not necessary to run it out completely). Then recharge before use and don’t interrupt the charging cycle. During periods of non-use, consider unplugging the charger, and storing the battery with only a limited use capacity. When first recharging then, give the battery some extra time on the charger.
The run time on the battery is going to depend on good charging habits – and your application. Hotter more strenuous applications will run the battery down much more quickly than light sanding or polishing. Keep in mind on the 7000 that run time is going to depend on the application, and on the quality of the alkaline batteries you use in the tool.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
Stall protection is built into the tool to protect the motor and the battery from overheating in the event of a stall in the material.
The stall protection kicks in when you put too much pressure on the tool for too long or the bit becomes bound in the work piece, especially at high speeds. If this happens, the motor will stop. Simply remove the tool from the material. If the tool was stuck for more than five seconds, you will have to turn the tool off and then back on to re-start. If the stall was less time than that, the tool should begin spinning on its own when removed from the material. If you find you are continually stopping in the work piece, you may need to consider an alternative tool, accessory, or technique to accomplish what you are attempting to do with the tool. Keep in mind the tool is more prone to stall sensitivity when the battery is close to the end of the charge.
The 8050 and 8100 have some similarities, but also some clear differences. They are both powered by lithium ion power the 8050 is an 8V Max battery contained lithium ion powered tool, the 8100 is an 8V Max lithium ion powered too with a removable battery pack. They both use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 8050 features an advanced push button speed selector and a separate on/off switch. The 8050 is also the physically smallest high speed rotary tool we make and is probably one of the most comfortable and easy to control tools as a result. Users will be less fatigued and more capable of managing fine detail with this tool.
This tool will work with most accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. The exceptions are router bits, multipurpose cutting blades and the ceramic wall tile cutting accessory, and any accessory that recommends the use of a guide or attachment to manage the use. The reason is simple, no attachments will work with the 8050. You can use cutting wheels with this tool but this tool is not recommended for cutting metals. Generally, any accessory that can be used free hand is suitable for use on this tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
No. It will not work with any attachments.
The tool is cordless and it is small. So it is a great option for working out project details without the constraints of a cord. The greatest satisfaction as a user may occur when you are using the tool in a situation where using a corded tool simply is not possible. Cordless tools do provide a convenience that corded tools do not have, but they also have run time limits. This tool is lighter weight than our 8220 or 8100 so it will be more comfortable in your hand.
This is a great question. While we cannot really answer it for you, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? IF the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product and a tool with a cord, they are built for long term use and durability. Those include the 4000, 4200, 4300. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. The 8050 is a lighter duty option, the battery/tool will need to be recharged. If you are a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only gets bigger and better. We encourage you to think BIG!
When the light flashes red on the tool, it is an indication the tool is about to turn off and will need recharging, or it could be a sign that the tool is too hot or cold for use.
Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. To check that, take your tool back out of the charger, turn it on and see what color the fuel gauge light is. IF it is green, you are good to go. The tool does not need any charging. On the charger itself, there is nothing that will light up. All of those signals will show up on the tool. When the battery terminals in the tool make contact with the charger, the tool will evaluate the state of the battery. If charging is necessary, so the battery can accept any charge at all, the blue lights on the tool that indicated speed will scroll while the tool is accepting a charge. IF the battery is too hot or cold, the tool will not charge immediately, but will reevaluate and when the tool gets to the proper temperature, charging will begin.
3 hours and 45 minutes.
The battery charges at a slower rate so the battery charges safely.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
We recommend charging the battery in temperatures above 32° F, and below 113°F. Store the tool and the battery pack in a dry location where temperatures will not exceed 120°F. Excesses can cause damage to the cells of the battery.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
No. Cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
The battery charges at a slower rate so the battery charges safely.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
These tools all share some similarities, but the 3000 provides the user with a click-and-set variable speed control. The Series 100 is a single speed tool and the Series 200 is a two speed tool. They all use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The 3000 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The variable speed option allows the user to take the speed down a little further when using accessories that have a speed limit – like a brush or a buff.
First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
It depends – the 3000 features variable speed on a click-and-set switch – when using this tool your speed selection is going to be more of a feel or a sound as you get comfortable using the tool. The speed chart in the owner's manual acts as a guideline for the speed settings of 2/4/6/8/10 on the tool. If you know your application could require more exacting speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 4000 or 4200.
No, you aren't missing speeds. The switch is a continuous slide/click and set switch. There are detents that create the "click" settings, and those run from end to end beneath the switch. The detents can start before the necessary contact is made with the switch – making it seem that you are "missing a speed." Your speed range is still 5,000 to 32,000 rpm.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
The Series 100 is a single speed tool. The Series 200 is a two speed tool.
The Series 100 is a constant speed tool – 35,000 RPM. The tool itself is an economical option that allows the use of accessories that require a high speed. A key application that generally requires high speed is a fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheel. Using that at a slow speed will make the accessory less effective. There are high speed rotary tool accessories in our line that we do not recommend using with the Series 100 because the accessories require a lower speed for safe operation. Always check the speed rating on an accessory before using it in the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
First, verify the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut – so it is a little stuck in there. Accessories won't fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You'll know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you're seeing. If this doesn't work, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
No. Some of our accessories do have speed limits. Those include but are not limited to brushes (of all kinds), buffs, diamond cutting wheels, and grout removal accessories. Most carving, routing, engraving, grinding, and sanding accessories will work well on the Series 100. Those usually will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using the keyless chuck (sold separately), it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
No – we exclude the Grout Removal Attachment because the accessory should operate between speeds of 18,000 – 20,000 rpm. Also, the A550 Shield comes with a brush – so while the attachment will fit, keep in mind we do not recommend using that brush on the Series 100.
The Series 100 is really designed for Cutting, Carving, Sanding, Engraving. . . and applications that require high speed. If you know your application could require more varying speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the Series 200, 3000, 4000 or 4200.
This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
These tools share the same body style, but the Series 200 is a two speed tool. The Series 100 is a single speed tool. They use the same collets, and can also work with our keyless chuck. The Series 200 will work with all current attachments and accessories. The low speed option allows the use of accessories that have a speed limit, like a brush or a buff.
First, verify if the collet is there. To do that, hold down the shaft lock button on the nose of the tool. Keep holding it down, and unthread the collet nut. Take it off the tool completely. There should be a collet in the end of the tool that extends past the metal threading. If all you see is metal threading, take a closer look at the collet nut. Chances are the collet is actually pinched in the collet nut, so it is just a little stuck in there. Accessories will not fit in there as a result of it being pinched. You will know the collet is stuck in the collet nut if you see a silver sleeve in the threaded end of the collet nut. To remove that, or open it up, take the shank end of the accessory and with the collet nut and collet off the tool, insert the accessory in the silver sleeve you are seeing. IF this does not work to open that up, consider using the pointed end of a pencil and insert that into the collet nut the correct way – it will push the collet back out of the collet nut and then an accessory will be able to fit in the collet.
It depends: The Series 200 features two speeds: 15,000 and 35,000 rpm. The benefit of that is you do not have to wonder how fast the tool is going, those speeds are the set speeds. The lower speed setting will allow the use of the full selection of our high speed rotary tool line of accessories, but some materials may really require a lower speed still, like plastic and some polishing applications. If you know your application could requires a wider range of speeds then we would encourage you to consider moving up to the 3000, 4000 or 4200.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
The accessories are definitely consumable. Some will last longer than others. The good news is users do control some of the life expectancy in any accessory. Here are some things to keep in mind – The accessories work on SPEED, not force or torque. If you are finding you have to push on an accessory, rather than guide it, chances are it's not the best accessory for that application or material. If the accessory you have is the only option and it's capable of working on your material, then you may have to adjust your technique to find success. Consider reducing the volume of material the accessory is in contact with – and lighten the touch on the accessory into the material. There are many accessories in our line that are capable of a variety of applications. A less aggressive, but more frequent pass is the best way to extend the life of any accessory. The right accessory won't burn and smoke when used properly. There are a number of hints and tricks for using accessories successfully in the FAQ for the various accessory categories.
The shaft lock button operating properly is critical to your success in securing an accessory in the tool. If you can no longer tighten or loosen the collet nut properly, you should send you tool to us so we can help you with a repair. Here's our service advice – seat and then tighten the accessory properly. Don't over-tighten your collet nut. As you hold down on the locking button to over-tighten the collet nut, you risk elongated the hole the stop pin fits into. To loosen that overtightened collet nut, you will have to put excessive pressure on that some hole, in the opposite direction. Develop the good habit of verifying that your accessory is securely held in the tool, and never push the locking button down when the tool is turned on; doing so will damage the hole the stop pin goes into and the stop pin itself. This condition can be repaired, but this is generally user error, and not a matter of warranty.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
Our packaging will always tell you what size shank the accessory is (show an example of that). The collets are marked with ring. The 480 does not have any rings around the stem, the 481 (3/32) has 3 rings, the 482 (1/16) has 2 rings, and the 483 (1/32) has 1 ring. Note: after you have inserted and tightened down on the shank of any accessory, always check to make sure the accessory is tight in the tool by giving it a little tug before you turn your tool on. If the collet and collet nut you have chosen are not securing that accessory, you may need a different collet.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start by taking everything off the tool, remove any accessory, remove the chuck or the collet and collet nut. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a second. IF you detect something, that tool should be submitted to us for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out, but we are smart enough to never say never. IF the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the chuck and secure it and turn the tool on. How is the tool running? If you detect a wobble, we may need to take a look at your chuck. When you thread that onto the tool, it should be closing evenly. IF you are using a collet and collet nut, do the same thing. Secure those on the tool and check it out. Finally, if the tool is operating properly with those elements in place, now consider your accessory. Properly seating an accessory is really a critical step to reducing or eliminating run out. Our advice is to insert the accessory as deeply as possible into the collet/collet nut or chuck, then start to tighten things down. Make sure you do not tighten on any actual fluting, accessories are not designed to be held by the fluting, but by the shank. When you turn the tool on, if you are getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool more comfort and control when you are operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results. That is our greatest interest.
Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It's important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
The 4000 and 3000 share some similarities, but the 4000 has greater control compared to the 3000. Both tools use the same collets, and work with our keyless chuck, and all current attachments. Additionally, the 4000 can work with our older high-performance attachments. The 4000 features a speed dial that is separated from the on/off switch and can dial up or down speed in approximately 1000 rpm increments. The benefit for any user is that when you find that "sweet-spot" for speed, they will be able to get back to that. The on/off switch on the 4000 also locks out the collet or shaft lock mechanism. That means when the tool is on, you cannot accidentally push or activate the collet locking mechanism and damage the tool.
No. The 4000 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes.
The bushes should last between 50 and 100 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes every 30 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8 then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes are available by calling 1(800) 437 3635.
There's not an absolute answer to this question. Sure, the chuck can be finger tightened, however, if you feel you are not strong enough to finger tighten the accessory and have it held successfully in the tool for the duration of your application, we recommend you consider using a wrench to tighten the chuck – there are flats on the sides of the chuck. The real answer to the question is that you try finger tightening the accessory – if it seems loose, use the wrench. If it still seem like it is not tight enough – see the next question.
There is not an absolute answer – but in most cases, the answer is YES if the attachment is going over the collet nut or chuck. Because once the attachment is over those, you can't access the collet nut or the chuck. You have to install the accessory into the tool, then connect the attachment. Examples of some of the attachments that you should insert the accessory before completing the attachment connection are the Shaper Router Table (because it's hard to see), and guides that help manage depth like the Cutting Guide or Circle Guide.
No. The keyless chuck can be used with several attachments, but before you do that, consider how much precision the application will require. The chuck should not be used with cutting guides, shaper router tables, router attachments.
This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. This includes the 4000 and 4200. The higher end tools are also the most full-featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler when running for an extended period of time. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. The Series 200 and 3000 are both an excellent starting point; these are tools most users can easily grow into. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.
This is a great question! The keyless chuck is super convenient – but it’s not designed to be used in more aggressive applications. Those would be things that may put strong side load on the tool, or things that may require greater precision. For those applications we recommend using a collet and collet nut. The accessories will be more secure and held in the tool with something specifically designed to hold that shank size.
This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks. If you are not using a keyless chuck (sold separately) it is really important to use the alternative collet and collet nut we supplied. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#481, #482, #483) or in a full set (#4485). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory.
The Dremel 4200 features a unique method of quickly changing the same shank size accessory – called EZ change. it is supported with a different nose on the tool and a different style collet. This feature allows the user to release or pull back on two small levers on the housing of the tool to loosen and remove or insert the accessory, and pull forward toward the nose of the tool to tighten the accessory and hold it in place. The feature is designed to save time and effort when users are switching from one accessory to the other with the same shank size. The model 4000 uses our standard collets held in place by a collet nut that threads onto the tool.
Yes! The tool has consumer replaceable motor brushes. The bushes should last between 40 and 80 hours, depending on your application. A consistently more aggressive application could cause brushes to require more frequent changing. Our advice is to check the brushes after every 8 hours. When the carbon piece is shorter than 1/8? then both brushes should be replaced. Keep in mind they will not wear identically. Not checking and replacing your brushes could cause damage to the tool. Once replaced, we recommend the tool be turned on with no load for 5 to 10 minutes to seat the brushes. The tool will run smoother with seated brushes. The replacement brushes can be ordered by calling 1 800 437 3635.
Electronic Feedback Control is similar to cruise control on a car. The feature is designed to bring the tool back to the selected speed when the accessory meets the material. This will really be most noticeable at the lower and mid-range speeds. It will be undetectable in high speed applications. It's important to consider technique when using any tool that works through speed instead of torque. A tool that works as a result of torque – or force is different than a high speed rotary tool. The accessory should never be forced into the material – consider a less aggressive more frequent pass and at the lower and mid-range speeds, the tool will adjust to come back up to the selected speed.
This tool will work with all accessories in our line that are suitable for use on a high speed rotary tool. Most of those will have a 1/8 shank. Some (like smaller drill bits) will have smaller shanks and will require the use of a different collet. The collet supplied with this tool will work with accessories that are 1/8 shank. If you require a collet that will work with a smaller shank accessory, they are available separately (#EZ481, #EZ482, #EZ483). Please use the collet that corresponds with the shank size of your chosen accessory. If you are having trouble finding those, they can be ordered by calling us at 1(800) 437-3635.
To change from collet to another you will need a needle nose pliers (not supplied with the tool). With the pliers, lightly depress the finger of the collet until it is clear of the detent feature that holds the collet in place. Then pull the collet free from the end of the tool (EZ Change Chuck). To insert a new collet, insert the narrow end of the new collet completely into the EZ Change Chuck. The fingers of the collet will have to be aligned with the detents of the EZ Change chuck to be fully inserted. (For more information and illustrations, please refer to the owner's manual for your tool).
It is not possible to use the standard keyless chuck or general line collets on the model 4200. In the event being able to use those holding methods is more critical to your application, our recommendation is to consider the model 4000.
The steps necessary to hold the accessory in place on the 4200 are faster to actuate than unthreading the collet nut or chuck, however it's still really important to execute the steps completely. First make sure you are inserting a shank size that is a match for the collet you have in the 4200. In other words, if you've never changed the collet on your 4200, double check the shank size on your accessory – make sure it's a 1/8 shank. Then, pull the blue EZ change levers back (and keep them back) so all of the pressure is off the collet and insert the shank of the accessory as deeply into the tool as you can. Once fully seated, pull the EZ Change levers FORWARD toward the nose of the tool as far as you can. This will secure the accessory. The accessory should not slip during use. In the event you experience anything of that nature during use, you can try the following: Remove the accessory and remove the collet. Make sure there is nothing in the collet that is causing the accessory to stay slip (like debris or the broken end of a different accessory). Blow out the nose of the tool, or the EZ Chuck portion and then re-insert the collet, then the accessory and tighten completely. Two things to keep in mind: with extended use, the collet will wear and may require replacement. Also, If you are experiencing accessory movement during use after doing these simple trouble shooting steps, please contact us so we can provide service for your tool. The accessory should always be secure during operation.
There could be a few things contributing to that. To trouble shoot that for yourself, start with the tool with nothing in it. Turn the tool on. Let it run for a few seconds and come up to full speed. If you detect something like a wobble or hear anything that is concerning to you, the tool should be sent to our service center for evaluation. The tolerances on our tools help us manufacture a tool that is not prone to run out – but we are smart enough to never say never. If the tool seems to be running smoothly, turn it off, add the accessory - making sure you insert the accessory as deeply as possible and pull the EZ Change lever FORWARD to lock that accessory in fully. Now turn the tool on again. How is the tool running? When you turn the tool on, if you're getting excessive wobble, turn the tool off, loosen the accessory, pull it out and turn it a quarter turn and reseat it. Sometimes you have to do this several times to get things fully balanced. The benefit in doing so is a better run with the tool – more comfort and control when you're operating the tool, more consistent wear on the accessory, and of course better results.
The 4200 can be used with all CURRENT attachments, however, there are some things to consider... If you have what appears to be CURRENT attachments in your possession, with the advent of the 4200 we adjusted some things on those attachments to allow them to fit on the 4200. If the attachment you want to use came in the kit with your 4200, it will certainly work. If you had the attachment prior to owning the 4200 and it doesn't seem like a good fit, do not force that attachment onto the tool. It may simply require a different insert to get it to work and we can help you with that. Another consideration is that the attachment method may not be identical to attaching things to our other high speed rotary tools, so carefully consider all of the instructions for connecting any attachment. For example, to connect the 225 Flex Shaft, the 575 Right Angle, and 670 Mini Saw, you should first remove the housing cap from the tool, then insert the drive coupling (looks like a larger accessory with a square hole in the end), then thread the adapter (solid black cone shaped piece with grip on one edge and threading on the other) onto the end of the 4200. With those things in place, you can now attach the 225, 575, or 670.
These attachments were all developed long before the technology that allows for a faster accessory change when using just the 4200. In the event you are using one of these attachments, to access completely the levers to change an accessory, the tool will need to be removed from the attachment.
In most cases, the answer is YES because the EZ Change levers may be easier to access, you will have better confirmation that the accessory is seating completely, and more confidence that you have fully locked the accessory in place.
If you don't release the levers and keep them released when inserting an accessory, you may not really seat the accessory fully. Seating the accessory is the first critical step in securing the accessory. When you pull the plungers forward, they will not click, you simply have met with substantial resistance to getting them any further forward. Consider it the same way you would when using an actual threaded chuck or collet nut – as you thread it on, it does not click to indicate the accessory is locked in. Yet the accessory is secure. An additional consideration when using this tool is practicing NOT pushing or bearing down on the accessory. The general rule is if you have to do that, you may have the wrong accessory. Our tool still works the best by using a less aggressive, more frequent pass.
Not necessarily. The 4200 is designed to be a tool that will work as well for heavy duty applications as it does for the lighter duty uses – giving the user the freedom of a more rapid same shank accessory change. Our goal in bringing this tool to our users is the continuation of our commitment to on-going improvement, innovation, and high standards.
This is a great question. This is a great question, though each person's need is different, we may be able to help with the following question: Will the tool be used every day or for long periods of time? If the answer to this is yes, we would recommend considering a higher end product – they are built for durability. Those include the 4200, 4000 in corded tools and the 8220 in cordless tools. They are also the most full featured of our high speed rotary tools. Users will feel the benefit of the electronic feedback control, they will have a tool that is more tapered and has more airflow moving through it – so the tool will stay cooler running longer. If you're a new user just starting out, consider where you may go with high speed rotary use. By getting a tool like the 4200, you are stepping into a tool that opens up for you our entire rotary line of accessories and attachments. Our experience has taught us over the years that once people start to understand how to use their tool, their enjoyment for using it only grows.
There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. Keep those open and unblocked. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. It's also important to consider what you're doing. For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application. If the tool inordinately warm or uncomfortable to hold during your application, please contact us for assistance. As we said, the tool is running at high rpm – there will be some heat, but the tool should never be too hot for you to hold comfortably. In the event that would happen, we are here to help.
The 7350 will work with many accessories in the Dremel line, but it is not recommend for cutting, drilling, and routing as these applications require higher speed and power.
Attachments requiring a threaded nose cannot be connected to this tool as it does not have a threaded nose. The only compatible attachments that can be used with the 7350 include the 4486, 490 and 2500.
No. The cordless motor in the 7350 is sealed and the motor brushes cannot be replaced.
The 7350-PET’s compact size, single speed for ease of use, and Lithium-Ion battery make it perfect & more affordable solution for the entry level groomer. The 7760-PET (PawControl) offers additional power and versatility for groomers. The 7760-PET includes 2 grooming options (1) freehand grooming with the sanding bands or (2) controlled grooming with the AT01-PGA nail grooming attachment and sanding discs.
The AT01-PGA nail grooming attachment is compatible with many other Dremel corded and cordless tools, allowing users to bring additional versatility and functionality to their existing rotary tools.
If your dog has long fur, band it back to avoid it getting caught during trimming. If your dog has long fur on its paws or between the foot pads, trim the hairs first in order to lessen the risk of catching on the sanding accessory. Alternatively, you can use an old sock to cover your pet’s toe, foot, and leg and isolate the nail.
Yes, It is important to let the speed of the rotary tool do the work and to never apply pressure to the toenail with the spinning sanding band as this pressure may cause the nail to grow too hot, resulting in discomfort for your pet. More time may be required to completely groom the nails of larger dogs.
Grooming speed recommendations are made on a tool by tool basis as the recommended speed is a function of the overall tool power and performance. Users should consult the recommendations in the user manual. It is important to let the speed of the rotary tool do the work; never apply pressure to the toenail with the spinning sanding band. Pressure may cause the nail to grow too hot, resulting in discomfort for your pet. Refer to page 28 for specific nail grooming instructions while using the 7350-PET.
A green light will illuminate from the LED battery life indicator while charging and it will then turn off once fully charged.
Approximately 2 hours & 45 min.
The tool will run if plugged in for charging but the charging function will stop. There is no potential for damage if trying to operate the tool while plugged in for charging.
No. The 7350 is designed with an integrated battery and it is not possible for users to service it themselves.
Charge tool in temperatures above 32 degrees F and below 113 degrees F. Store tool in locations where temperatures will not exceed 122 degrees F to prevent serious damage to the battery cells.
Yes. If the tool shuts down during a high load application, remove the tool from the material, cycle the tool’s on/off switch, and resume tool usage with a lower force. If stalling persists, consider using a different accessory, technique or tool for the job.
The 7350-PET was designed specifically with beginners in mind in order to be as intuitive and easy-to-use as possible. The 7350-PET is a single speed precision tool that can be turned on with the simple push of a button and it has an integrated Li-Ion battery that is micro-USB rechargeable. The 7300-PT was a two speed tool that had a removable Ni-Cad battery and separate battery charger.
-Approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
The table provides approximate runtimes for reference. Keep in mind, however, that the runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, material, speed, and technique used.
The battery is shipped in a state ~30% charged and it is recommended to charge the tool fully before its first use for maximum performance.
Lithium-Ion battery technology provides greater consistency of power in a single charge. Performance will not slowly erode with use as with the NiCad predecessors. In short: more power in a smaller size, always ready & no memory effects on the battery.
The Dremel 7350 has an improved runtime of approximately 30% over the Dremel 7300.
The tools are identical with the exception of the colors of the plastic housing and on/off button.
Approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
No, the 4.0ah pack has the square base as opposed to the rounded base which does not fit for the function of a rotary tool so we have kept compatibility with the rounded base batteries which are better for the design of the rotary tool. The 3.0ah pack in combination with the brushless motor is delivering 100% more runtime vs the existing 8220.
We recommend using Dremel batteries and chargers for your Dremel tools. You should submit your Dremel batteries and chargers to a Dremel authorized service center for repair.
No, the 8250 is not compatible with Dremel 12V battery pack model numbers 875, 880, B812 & B814 which are intended for use with the Dremel 8220. The B816 12V battery pack is intended for use with the 8250 and not compatible with the Dremel 8220.
The tool is 12V Max. This means the peak voltage of the battery pack is 12V, the standard voltage is 10.8V. This is inline with how power tool brands communicate 10.8V battery packs which peak at 12V.
The Dremel 8250 is warranted against defective material or workmanship for the useable lifetime of the product. Please refer to the tools Operating / Safety instructions for the full terms and conditions. The battery and charger for the product are not covered under the limited lifetime warranty, they are covered under the standard 2 year warranty.
The tool’s default speed setting is 15,000 RPM. If the tool is turned off and back on:
If you turn off the tool with the battery still inserted, the tool LEDs will behave as follows:
To turn off all LEDs, turn off the tool and remove the battery pack.
Illuminates for tool overload, excessive tool or battery temperature. Follow instructions in the 8250 quick start guide to resolve these issues.
Insert your B816-01 battery pack into your GAL12V-20 charger. Once the battery pack is inserted into the charger a blinking green light on the charger will indicate the battery is charging, a solid green light will indicate a fully charged battery pack. For complete charging instructions please refer to the Operating / Safety Instructions.
The Dremel 12V Max batteries B815 & B816 are the only batteries qualified by Dremel to use with the 12V 8240 / 8250 / 8260 tools. They are compatible with the Bosch BAT414, BAT415 & GBA12V30 batteries as indicated on the battery/charger compatibility chart included with the tools, but these tools are not part of the Bosch professional system. We recommend using Dremel batteries and chargers for your Dremel tools
Brushless motors are more powerful and more efficient than brushed motors due to the configuration of the motor using a permanent magnet as opposed to wound wire coils which are used in brushed motors. Brushless motors require less maintenance as you don’t need to replace brushes on the motor. These benefits lead to a more powerful and more efficient rotary tool than brushed rotary tools.
The core tool features and benefits between the 8250 and 8260 are the same (100% more runtime, 20% more power, 20% faster speed of cut). The 8260 is a smart tool with connectivity benefits when connected to the Dremel App. These connectivity benefits provide tool performance insights, accessory & material guidance and more. The 8260 also has an LED illuminated Dremel logo. The main difference between the 8250 & 8260 to the 8240 is the brushless motor which is more efficient than the brushed 8240 motor. The brushless 8250 & 8260 motor helps to provide more power, more runtime and more speed vs the 8240s brushed motor.
The combination of the brushless motor and the 3.0ah battery pack (vs 2.0ah pack used in 8220) contributes to improved performance. The 8250 lasts twice as long as the 8220 when cutting ¼” zinc plated steel lag bolts (20 minutes vs 10 minutes) and cuts 4 foot of ¾” pine 20% faster than the 8220 (65 seconds vs 84 seconds).
The combination of the brushless motor and the 3.0ah battery pack (vs 2.0ah pack used in 8220) contributes to improved performance. The 8250 provides 100% more runtime when cutting ¼” zinc plated steel lag bolts vs the 8220 (20 minutes vs 10 minutes).
The RPM of the tool does not directly correlate to the performance of the tool in application. The speed of the tool in application is affected by multiple factors including the motor. The brushless motor of the 8250 ensures the tool can cut 4 foot of ¾” pine 20% faster (65 seconds vs 84 seconds) than the Dremel 8220 despite having a lower top speed.
The brushless motor, which runs quieter and smoother than a brushed motor, and the tools venting system, with an improved airflow, help to reduce the noise and vibration of the tool.
The 8250 lasts approximately for 12 minutes in heavy duty applications and 25 minutes in light duty applications. Keep in mind, however, that the runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, accessory, material, speed, and technique used. The estimates provided are based on average use and actual runtimes may vary. Dremel prides itself on its legacy of engineering rotary tools with the highest standards of quality and performance since 1932, so rest assured that the 8260 will be the best in its class.
Light Duty Applications:
Heavy Duty Applications:
Approximately 95 minutes.
Yes, the 8250 has three LED battery life indicators which will illuminate as follows:
Approximately 2 hours & 45 min.
The tool will run if plugged in for charging but the charging function will stop. There is no potential for damage if trying to operate the tool while plugged in for charging. Yes. The tool can still run while connected to a power adapter, however, the charging circuity shuts off when the motor is running.
No. The 7350 is designed with an integrated battery and it is not possible for users to service it themselves.
Charge tool in temperatures above 32 degrees F and below 113 degrees F. Store tool in locations where temperatures will not exceed 122 degrees F to prevent serious damage to the battery cells.
The tools are identical with the exception of the colors of the plastic housing and on/off button.
Lithium-Ion battery technology provides greater consistency of power in a single charge. Performance will not slowly erode with use as with the NiCad predecessors. In short: more power in a smaller size, always ready & no memory effects on the battery.
A green light will illuminate from the LED battery life indicator while charging and it will then turn off once fully charged.
Approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
The Dremel 7350 has an improved runtime of approximately 30% over the Dremel 7300.
The table provides approximate runtimes for reference. Keep in mind, however, that the runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, material, speed, and technique used.
The 7350 was designed specifically with beginners in mind in order to be as intuitive and easy-to-use as possible. The 7350 is a single speed precision tool that can be turned on with the simple push of a button and it has an integrated Li-Ion battery that is micro-USB rechargeable. The 7300 was a two speed tool that had a removable Ni-Cad battery and separate battery charger.
The 7350’s compact size, single speed for ease of use, and Lithium-Ion battery make it perfect for light-duty home & craft projects. The 7760 offers additional power and versatility with a broader speed range allowing users another great option for light-duty home & craft projects. The Dremel 8240, 8250, and 8260 offer even more power and can handle heavier-duty applications like drilling, routing, and cutting.
The battery is shipped in a state ~30% charged and it is recommended to charge the tool fully before its first use for maximum performance.
Yes. If the tool shuts down during a high load application, remove the tool from the material, cycle the tool’s on/off switch, and resume tool usage with a lower force. If stalling persists, consider using a different accessory, technique or tool for the job.
Yes, the 7350 is replacing the 7300 with upgraded battery technology and improved industrial design based on user research.
The 7350 will work with many accessories in the Dremel line, but it is not recommended for cutting, drilling, and routing as these applications require higher speed and power.
Attachments requiring a threaded nose cannot be connected to this tool as it does not have a threaded nose. The only compatible attachments that can be used with the 7350 include the 4486, 490 and 2500.
No. The cordless motor in the 7350 is sealed and the motor brushes cannot be replaced.
The 7350 was designed specifically with beginners in mind in order to be as intuitive and easy-to-use as possible. A single speed tool that can be turned on with the simple push of a button is a key embodiment of this simplicity. Additionally, 12,000 RPM allows the 7350 to perform all light duty DIY and crafting applications.
There are several 4 Volt Li-Ion cordless Dremel products that feature the USB connector, examples include the Versa (PC10) and the 7760. The 7760’s USB Connector features an improvement from the Versa in terms of mounting rigidity. 7350 is even better in that additional through-hole soldering points were added to the Printed Circuit Board Assembly in order ensure a more secure mount.
The tool will run if plugged in for charging but the charging function will stop. There is no potential for damage if trying to operate the tool while plugged in for charging.
The Lite will work with most accessories in the Dremel line. The Lite may not work effectively with accessories that require speeds greater than 25,000 RPM, including cutting and routing applications.
Yes. A red LED light will flash when the tool stalls. If this happens, remove the tool from the material, shut the tool off, and resume use without excess pressure. If stalling persists, consider using a different accessory, technique or tool for the job.
No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
Approximately 2 hours & 45 minutes. The Lite should be fully charged before its first use.
The Lite has an LED battery life indicator which will illuminate with a red light when the battery is low. A green light will illuminate while charging. The light will turn off once the Lite is fully charged.
Exact runtimes will vary based on use. The runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, material, speed, & technique used. (ex. Approximate runtime for engraving is 20 minutes)
No the tool can be operated independently from the Dremel app however the Dremel app has connectivity features to the 8260 which will enhance your experience with the tool.
The Dremel app allows you to control, monitor and manage your 8260. Gain more control over your tool and projects; receive tool management and performance alerts, accessory guidance, and more - all from your smartphone or tablet.
Yes, the 8260 needs to be connected to your smart device to receive notifications. Enabling notifications also allows you to receive a low battery alert when your battery is below 10%.
The app will provide green, yellow and red status indicators for tool and battery temperature. The Dremel App also allows you to enable notifications to receive this information.
If the red warning logo illuminates, the notifications section in the app will provide instructions on how to resolve the issues with the tool.
Approximately 95 minutes.
The 8260 lasts approximately for 12 minutes in heavy duty applications and 25 minutes in light duty applications. Keep in mind, however, that the runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, accessory, material, speed, and technique used. The estimates provided are based on average use and actual runtimes may vary. Dremel prides itself on its legacy of engineering rotary tools with the highest standards of quality and performance since 1932, so rest assured that the 8260 will be the best in its class.
Light Duty Applications:
Heavy Duty Applications:
Yes, the 8260 has three LED battery life indicators which will illuminate as follows:
The combination of the brushless motor and the 3.0ah battery pack (vs 2.0ah pack used in 8220) contributes to improved performance. The 8260 lasts twice as long as the 8220 when cutting ¼” zinc plated steel lag bolts (20 minutes vs 10 minutes) and cuts 4 foot of ¾” pine 20% faster than the 8220 (65 seconds vs 84 seconds).
The combination of the brushless motor and the 3.0ah battery pack (vs 2.0ah pack used in 8220) contributes to improved performance. The 8260 provides 100% more runtime when cutting ¼” zinc plated steel lag bolts vs the 8220 (20 minutes vs 10 minutes).
When the Dremel app is updated our team will ensure that both the app and the 8260 will have equivalent or improved functionality at the time you purchased your 8260.
Brushless motors are more powerful and more efficient than brushed motors due to the configuration of the motor using a permanent magnet as opposed to wound wire coils which are used in brushed motors. Brushless motors require less maintenance as you don’t need to replace brushes on the motor. These benefits lead to a more powerful and more efficient rotary tool than brushed rotary tools.
The RPM of the tool does not directly correlate to the performance of the tool in application. The speed of the tool in application is affected by multiple factors including the motor. The brushless motor of the 8260 ensures the tool can cut 4 foot of ¾” pine 20% faster (65 seconds vs 84 seconds) than the Dremel 8220 despite having a lower top speed.
The brushless motor, which runs quieter and smoother than a brushed motor, and the tools venting system, with an improved airflow, help to reduce the noise and vibration of the tool.
Please see the below troubleshooting tips:
You can receive tool management and performance alerts, accessory guidance, and more - all from your smartphone or tablet. These features will help improve your experience with the tool and help to guide you on how to make the most out of your tool. For safety reasons we advise you to turn the tool off when you want to use the Dremel app to monitor your tool usage.
No. The 7760 is designed with an integrated battery to prevent any potential issues involving the battery becoming loose during use.
The 7760-PGK is designed with novice groomers in mind with a step-up option for experienced grooming. The 7300-PT is the tried and true pet nail grooming tool used by experienced groomers.
Approximately 2 hours & 45 min. The PawControl should be fully charged before its first use.
The PawControl has an LED battery life indicator which will illuminate with a red light when the battery is low. A green light will illuminate while charging. The light will be turned off once the PawControl is fully charged.
Exact runtimes will vary based on use. The runtime of any rotary tool is highly dependent on a number of different factors, including the type of application, material, speed, and technique used.
No – cordless tools do not operate with motor brushes.
No. The 7760 should be fully charged before use. If the tool is plugged into the USB and power adaptor and is in use the tool will not be charging.
The PawControl is a rotary tool & can be used for other applications outside of pet grooming. The 7760 will work with most accessories in the Dremel line. The tool may not work effectively with accessories that require speeds greater than 25,000 RPM, including cutting and routing applications.
Yes. A red LED light will flash when the tool stalls. If this happens, remove the tool from the material, shut the tool off, and resume use without excess pressure. If stalling persists, consider using a different accessory, technique or tool for the job.
The Dremel Ultra-Saw is a handheld saw that allows users to make precise, clean, and straight cuts in a wide variety of materials using compact cutting wheels. The Ultra-Saw has a metal front end and can be used for plunge cutting, straight cutting, flush cutting and surface prep. The Saw-Max has a lighter weight front end and can be used for straight cutting, plunge cutting, and flush cutting.
The Ultra-Saw provides great control and can really be used for a wide variety of applications – including surface prep!
We have wheels that will cut a variety of materials including wood, plastic, wall and floor tile, drywall, masonry, and metal. For surface preparation, we have a paint and rust wheel and a diamond abrasive wheel.
We recommend using the flush cut blade for flush cutting. We do not recommend it for standard cutting.
No. The blades for material like wood are abrasive. To allow for flush cutting, the guarding on this saw is limited. For that reason, we would never recommend using a blade with teeth.
The maximum depth is ¾”.
Our advice with cutting a material like plywood is to remember what you’re cutting – layers of material that alternate the run of the grain for strength and are held together by adhesive. Greatest opportunity for success is to use a moderate feed rate – don’t force the blade to try and cut more than it can. Doing so is going to burn the blade and the material.
We would recommend the Ultra-Saw. The Saw-Max can cut metal, but the housing of the tool is not metal. If metal is your primary application, we recommend the Ultra-Saw because it has a metal front end and will on a long term basis withstand the heat generated from cutting metal.
There would be no benefit in doing this – you would lose cutting depth.
The no load speed is 13,000 RPM
We really recommend using the auxiliary handle during surface prep applications.
The Dremel Saw-Max is a compact, handheld saw that allows users to easily make precise, clean, and straight cuts in a wide variety of materials using compact cutting wheels. The tool is designed to help users with increased cutting accuracy and maneuverability.
We recommend using the flush cut blade for flush cutting. We do not recommend it for standard cutting.
No. The blades for material like wood are abrasive. To allow for flush cutting, the guarding on this saw is limited. For that reason, we would never recommend using a blade with teeth.
The maximum depth is ¾”.
Our advice with cutting a material like plywood is to remember what you’re cutting – layers of material that alternate the run of the grain for strength and are held together by adhesive. Greatest opportunity for success is to use a moderate feed rate – don’t force the blade to try and cut more than it can. Doing so is going to burn the blade and the material.
We would recommend the Ultra-Saw. The Saw-Max can cut metal, but the housing of the tool is not metal. If metal is your primary application, we recommend the Ultra-Saw because it has a metal front end and will on a long term basis withstand the heat generated from cutting metal.
The no load speed is 13,000 RPM
We really recommend using the auxiliary handle during surface prep applications.
The Saw-Max offers excellent cutting control because the saw is compact and it’s easy to see what you’re doing. This saw also has the capacity to make plunge cuts and flush with one-handed operation using abrasive cutting wheels.
We have wheels that will cut a variety of materials including wood, plastic, wall and floor tile, drywall, masonry, and metal.
17,000 RPM
No. The Ultra-Saw blade are larger diameter – to match the housing of that tool. The will not work properly and safely on the Saw-Max.
Yes, model number B20V20.
This is not a feature that is currently designed in to the US20V.
Dremel has built the US20V with an exclusive solution that detects when too much cutting force is being applied, allowing you to get the most performance and power from the tool and battery. If you notice the tool slowing down, simply reduce the amount of force you're applying and the tool will speed back up. This will result in maximum tool and battery performance. If you think there's another reason, check the troubleshooting section in the manual or contact Dremel customer service directly.
This is not a feature that is currently designed in to the US20V.
The Ultra-Saw US20V is designed to cut a wide variety of materials when using the correct corresponding accessory. The kit comes with a wheel to cut wood & plastic (US500), metal (US510) and tile (US540). The abrasive technology in these accessories will deliver a smooth finished cut. Additional accessories can help you cut masonry, perform flush cuts, along with surface preparation of concrete.
The Ultra-Saw US20V can handle up to 3/4" thick material, also known as 1-by material. The tool also has a depth of cut setting where cutting wheel can be set between 1/8” to 3/4” maximum depth of cut.
US20V is rated at 15,000 RPM. With different accessories, materials you cut, the thickness of the material, along with how you use the tool, all factor in speed of cut.
With 7 different accessories to offer, each one varies in how long they last. Our diamond metal cutting wheel (US550) will last 20 times longer than traditional cut-off wheels to cut metal. It really comes down to the type and thickness of the material that you’re working with.
Depending on the charge of the battery, typical charging time should be 50 to 65 minutes to get to a fully charged battery.
This attachment comes unassembled in the kit. The straight edge guide is used for cuts parallel to the edge of the work, and can be used from either side of the foot plate for cutting on the left or right side of the material.
The tool is equipped with a dust port for dust extraction. To use this feature, insert the dust port adapter into dust port built into the tool. Attach a vacuum hose into the adapter, then connect the opposite end of the hose to a shop vacuum cleaner. Be sure to read the tool manual as there's several safety warnings when using vacuum to collect dust and debris.
The Ultra-Saw comes with a 2.0 lithium-ion battery that has enough power to do most common projects on one charge. US20V can also handle bigger projects, such as cutting 3/4" plywood or building a bookcase, but may need a second battery for all the necessary cuts.
The B20V20 2.0Ah battery is also compatible with the MM20V Oscillating Multi-Tool.
US20V is built right to release, left to lock. You’ll need the included hex key to loosen and tighten the hex bolt. The inner and outer washers are not interchangeable, so make sure they are set correctly when changing accessories.
The Ultra-Saw is designed to use Ultra-Saw accessories. Do not use toothed blades or any accessories not specified for US20V.
The auxiliary handle is used to control and balance the tool during operations, which is threaded into mounting on the tool. Alternatively, the body of the tool can be grasped with both hands for control.
The Dremel B20V20 will charge in under 1 hour.
The B20V20 2.0Ah battery is also compatible with the US20V compact saw. Any Bosch 18V slim-pack batteries (single row of cells) available in North America are compatible with Dremel 20V Max tools.
The motor of the MM20V is brushed.
All Dremel Universal Dual Interface and Dremel Universal Quick-Fit Blades.
The Dremel MM20V is directly compatible with all Dremel oscillating accessories. Other designs that include an open back (such as DeWalt or Milwaukee) may work as well but will need an adapter to fit properly.
Kit includes Swiss made MM485 high performance carbide cutting blade, MM482 Bi-Metal cutting blade, and MM480 wood and drywall cutting blade.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Compared to the MM20, Dremel MM30 provides increased oscillation at a total of 3.2 degrees and a more powerful motor at a total of 3.3 amps making the MM30 a great choice for tougher cuts, but it will also help improve the speed of the cut being made. The accessory interface is magnetic - so when you're attaching the blade it's easier to use the wrench and keep the accessory in place. The wrench is stored conveniently on the front end of the tool. Finally, the MM30 is variable speed with a high end speed of 23,00 OSP. It's the fastest high end speed available.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
The MM20 is our most economical oscillating tool. It will accept both Quick Fit and Dremel Universal fit accessories. With variable speed, you can start action in almost any material and increase or decrease speed as necessary to maintain optimal control. The MM20 uses an included hex wrench to secure accessories. The MM30 is a little more powerful, and includes an on-board wrench to secure accessories. And the MM40/45 provides an additional increase in power and uses a Quick Lock to secure accessories.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
The MM40 and MM45 are our most full featured oscillating tools. The MM45 is sold exclusively at the Home Depot and is a 4.0 Amp motor. The MM40 is sold everywhere else. These tools do share some similarities including a speed range of 10,000 - 21,000 OSP, the "Quick-Lock feature which allows for tool-less accessory changing, and impressive motors that are designed to bring the speed of the tool back up to the selected setting. Keep in mind it should not be necessary to PUSH an oscillating tool during operation, rather guide it. And with the electronics in these tools, greater control makes the applications easier to tackle.
Unlike other tools which have a shaft that either rotates or moves up-and-down, an oscillating tool has a fast side-to-side motion. The oscillating motion can offer better control, more precision, safer operation and less dust than traditional tools.
No. Our oscillating tools do not have consumer replaceable motor brushes.
Oscillating tools bridge the gap between rotary tools and traditional power tools. They are better suited for larger jobs than rotary tools and are much more precise than traditional power tools. They can actually perform a number of tasks such as scraping, cutting, grinding and sanding.
Consider that this type of tool is something that parallels the usefulness of a high speed rotary tool. With it you can do everything from sand wood, remove caulk, remove grout between tiles, cut drywall, scrape stuck down vinyl flooring, make flush cuts, cut pipe in a variety of material, remove window glaze, and prep the surface of a floor. Doing these things with an oscillating tool is more controlled, and less messy, because the dust is simply staying on the surface of the project, not getting sprayed all over a room.
Our oscillating accessories all feature color coded packaging: Red for cutting, blue for scraping, green for grinding, black for grout removal, and purple for sanding. This information will help narrow the field on what accessory to choose for your application. When you are looking at an accessory that will cut, the blade will list if it is for wood or wood and metal. And the sand paper triangles will list if they are for a painted surface or wood prep. We are constantly considering new, innovative blades, so do not let this answer be your only stop. Check out our oscillating accessories on line to get the best fit for your project.
The tool follows some of the same principles that a High Speed Rotary Tool does. Pushing hard with the tool in motion and contact with the material will not make anything work faster. It will actually slow the effectiveness of the tool down considerably. Avoid pushing and function only to guide the tool through the cut or material removal process you need to complete. Pushing hard will wear out the accessory faster, generate more heat than is necessary, and it will be more fatiguing to any user. Faster results go hand-in-hand with pushing less, guiding more.
The tool works on oscillation, so it will be necessary to really stabilize whatever your project is. If the work piece vibrates and moves and the tool vibrates and moves, the two things are working against each other. Stabilize the work.
It is not really a trick. Our best recommendation is to slow the tool down to start with. It may not need to be slowed down a lot, but the initial cut or application is often a little easier to start at a slower speed and turn it up after you have made an initial path in the material.
The Velocity is a whole different way of considering oscillating power. This tool oscillates a full 5 degrees with a powerful 7 amp motor making it 9 times faster than our original Multi-Max Oscillating tool.
This tool is 7 amps. It is powerful and the accessories that come with the Velocity tool are designed for very heavy duty applications. You will find this tool is heavier than the other oscillating products in our line - you will also find that cutting something as thick as a 2 x 4 got a lot easier.
Yes they can be used on other oscillating tools - but the perfromance of these new blades is optimized on the Velocity tool.
This is a bi-metal blade.
This blade is bi-metal. It will work well on wood and metal as a result.
Try the MM485 Carbide blade!
No - but the control foot is there to help keep the blade at the best angle for fast, safe cutting.
Imperial; Inches and Feet.
Two AAA batteries.
No. The HSLM-01 measures distance, circumference, and area.
Laser precisely measures up to 65ft with accuracy of +/– *1/8".
The tape measure adapter measures up to 5ft distance.
Wheel adapter measures straight, curved & uneven surfaces up to 65ft.
Accessories cannot be purchased separately.
Yes, always charge the tool before using for the first time.
The glue pen has an integrated battery that is charged with a USB cord.
The glue pen takes standard 0.28”/7mm glue sticks.
It takes approximately 3-4 hours to fully charge.
Integrated 4V MAX Lithium Ion.
The battery is integrated into the tool.
The Dremel HSGP-01 cannot be used while plugged in.
It takes approximate 15 seconds to fully heat up.
A flashing green light indicates the tool is heating up. Solid green light indicates the tool is ready to use. A red light indicates the tool should be charged.
The electric scissors has an integrated battery that is charged with an USB-C cord.
Yes, always charge the tool before using for the first time.
It takes 2.5 hours to fully charge.
Integrated 4V MAX Lithium Ion.
The battery is integrated into the tool.
The Dremel HSSC-01 cannot be used while plugged in.
The HSSC-01 is recommended only for use on pet food packaging, corrugated boxes, packaging envelopes, fabrics, plastic packaging, and paper materials.
The kit includes two blade attachments. For further assistance please contact Dremel service.
Yes, always charge the tool before using for the first time.
It takes 90 minutes to fully charge.
Integrated 4V MAX Lithium Ion.
The electric screwdriver has an integrated battery that is charged with a USB cord.
The Dremel HSES-01 screwdriver cannot be used while plugged in.
The Electric screwdriver has a 6 torque setting providing enough power to drive small to large screws.
The bits are magnetic to the tool.
The battery is integrated into the tool.
Do not use when tool is plugged in.
The flashlight is waterproof, with IP67 certification.
24 hours on low beam, 8 hours on medium beam, 4 hours on high beam.
It takes approximately 5 hours to fully charge.
500 Lumens/ 5000K.
Yes, always charge the tool before using for the first time.
Integrated 4V MAX Lithium Ion.
The flashlight has an integrated battery that is charged with a USB cord. The adapter block is not included in the kit.
The battery is integrated into the tool.
Build quality depends on a number of factors such as layer thickness and build environment. The Dremel printers (3D20 & 3D40) extrude filament into layers as thick as a sheet of paper, a best-in-class 100 microns (0.10mm) thick. The printers also have an active cooling fan which helps to evenly cool filament and reduce warping. Their designed to provide a fully enclosed build environment and gripped feet for stability. Lastly, an important factor is the quality of the filament used. Always use Dremel filament with Dremel's printers for the best quality.
3D20: Maximum build volume is 9” x 5.9” x 5.5” (230mm x 150mm x 140mm).
3D40: Maximum build volume is 10” x 6” x 6.7” (254mm x 154mm x 170mm). 30% larger than the 3D20.
Dremel PLA filament is manufactured to provide the highest quality during operation and will help your Dremel 3D printer run smooth.
Yes. All Dremel PLA is compatible with the Dremel 3D printers.
You should only use Dremel PLA filament. Other filament may cause damage to the Dremel 3D printers and will void the warranty.
The Dremel Idea Builder Printer (3D20 & 3D40) are high quality 3D printer that goes above and beyond to mentor users through the 3D building process and introduce users to methods for turning their ideas into reality. The Dremel 3D Builder builds in 3D which means instead of putting ink onto a flat surface like in regular printing, it builds up material in three dimensions to create an object. It heats plastic filament and then draws it out in very fine layers.
Your 3D20 will come with a quick start guide, filament (1x .5kg spool), USB cable, SD loaded with model files, build tape, an object removal tool, instruction manual, unclog tool, and leveling sheet.
Your 3D40 will come with a quick start guide, filament (1x .5kg spool), USB cable, USB Flash drive loaded with model files, build tape (2), an object removal tool, instruction manual, unclog tool, and build sheet.
Yes. Dremel has worked hard to design your packaging so that un-boxing and boxing your Dremel 3D printer is quick and easy. The packaging will come in handy for future transportation and storage.
The Dremel 3D printer warranty is different from other Dremel products because the 3D printers are very different from a power tool. Dremel offers a best-in-class warranty that is designed to the complexity of the 3D20 and 3D40 designs.
The Dremel 3D20 can only build .g3drem files. The included computer software can handle .g3drem, .3dremel, and .STL files. The Dremel 3D40 can only build .3dremel files. The included computer software can handle .g3drem, .3dremel, and .STL files.
You can also prepare files in any design software, but will need to save the file as a .g3drem (3D20) or .3dremel (3D40) with 3D Builder.
The extruder may have skipped off the track as a result of the build platform not being level or due to a buildup of excess filament around the extruder tip. The Dremel 3D printer did not detect this skip and is one step ahead of the extruder. If this happens you should stop building and see instructions on cleaning the extruder tip and leveling the build platform.
It is possible that the motors are not running correctly or that the model file is corrupted. If you are using an SD card or USB flash drive, attempt the official Dremel Test Print through your computer software. If you are using the computer software, attempt to load the test print via SD card or USB flash drive. If you are still unable to move the extruder, check your printer for firmware updates by running the updater in the Dremel 3D software. If the steps above do not resolve the issue, please contact Dremel's customer service department for service information or visit the Support page on Dremel3D.com
This may be the result of a build failure or a poorly constructed file. The building process may have been interrupted by the computer disconnecting, or by removing the SD card/USB flash drive during the building process. Run the Dremel Test Print to verify that your printer is working correctly, allowing the print to finish completely before disconnecting it.
Clean the Dremel 3D Idea Builder's exterior with a lint free cloth. Clear the outer surfaces of any debris that is visible. To avoid damaging your Dremel 3D printer do not use water, chemicals or other cleaners on the printer. Always check to ensure the extruder nozzle is clear of debris using common needlenose plyers. Also be sure to change the build tape at regular intervals.
You can register your Dremel 3D Idea Builder by following the instructions on our registration page.
3D20: There is no door lock or monitoring on the Dremel 3D20.
3D40: On the Dremel 3D40 the doors are monitored, and both doors must be closed to initiate a remote print (from website or App). This ensures that there are no hands inside the printer when a print is started from a user who is not near it. During any other time, including building an object, opening a door will cause a warning notice to display on the screen.
No, there is no emergency stop button, however, on 3D20, the side power switch will immediately cut power to the printer. On 3D40, due to the additional electronics, there is a short delay (< 3 seconds) to fully shutdown after the power button is pressed.
Dremel's 3D Idea Builder printers (3D20 & 3D40) will turn back on to an idle state after a power disruption. The previous print project will be canceled automatically. If the print head is still hot, the fans will turn on to cool it down.
Yes, you can print such a model with use of Print Studio, this software has the ability to add supports to your model.
Supports are designed to be easy to remove and they should leave minimal marks on your print, however if you find some marks you can sand them with fine sanding paper.
The 3D40 Printer comes with benefit of "Quik Level TM", which is a feature that is capable of detecting the position of the build platfe with the use of smart sensor technology, and guides you through the process to achieve perfect positioning of the build plate.
No, both of Dremel's 3D Idea Builders (3D20 & 3D40) are constructed with single extruder systems.
Print Studio is developed in co-operation with Autodesk, allowing you more functionality and assistance to achieve the best possible prints.
Please refer to our **design tool** section. It will provide simple step-by-step insturctions on how to get started.
Please use Print Studio and use Automatic Repair function, which will resolve your issue.
Yes, you can, majority of modeling software can export files to STL, which is the file type accepted by both Print Studio and Dremel slicing software.
We do not recommend you to print any object that will come in either direct or indirect contact with food.
The black build tape will last up to 50 prints; the blue build tape will last up to 10 prints.
Both build tapes will provide the same quality of build, the main difference between the build tapes is the durability and slight differences in object removal.
If your model is too big and resizing is not an option, you can use the "Plane Cut" function, which will allow you to print models in two parts and you can glue them together afterwards.
In order to achieve the best printing position for your model, you can use the "Automatic Layout" function in Print Studio
Print Studio will automatically add supports to ensure good build quality, however if you would like to delete the supports before slicing, go a step back to "supports" section and delete them, Print Studio will not add them again.
This pre-print activity allows the extruder to flush out any old filament that may not stick properly during your print. By purging this material, you are printing with filament at the optimal print tempatures, providng maximum hold with the first layer of the print.
Bosch has licensed its Dremel DigiLab brand to 3PI Tech Solutions, Inc. for use their 3D printers, filaments and accessories. We believe our users will benefit from the higher focus on 3D printers and printing technology that 3PI can provide. Customers can expect the same great service, reliability and quality they have come to know to continue into the future.
Starting November 1, 2021, Dremel DigiLab 3D printers and accessories will be available through 3PI Tech Solutions. Please visit www.3PITech.com for news and details on Dremel DigiLab 3D printers and to find out how Dremel DigiLab 3D printers can benefit you.
3PI Tech Solutions, Inc. is the company that has licensed the right to use the Dremel DigiLab brand with its 3D printers, filaments and accessories. 3PI is dedicated to the 3D printing industry and has the passion, extensive knowledge and experience to provide high quality 3D printing products to educators and consumers.
We are making these changes so that we can focus on delivering new innovation and performance in the power tool industry while at the same time ensuring that 3D printers and accessories bearing the Dremel DigiLab name continue to deliver the performance and features our customers have come to expect.
You can expect the same friendly and trained 3D experts that have serviced your 3D printer needs in the past. Dremel has licensed the rights to sell our printers to 3PI Tech Solutions, however the repair and service of Dremel 3D printers remains with Dremel. Dremel 3D printer customer service can be reached by calling at 1-844-437-6533 or by going to Dremel.com for your preferred contact method.
The same friendly and trained 3D experts will continue to be available and can be reached by calling 1-844-437-6533 or by visiting https://us.dremel.com/en_US/customer-support for your preferred contact method.
The same friendly and trained 3D experts are awaiting your parts orders. These orders can be placed via credit card by contacting us at 1-844-437-6533.
The attachment works with the following Dremel models: 3000, 4000, 4300, 7300-PGT, 7700, 8100, 8220
No, the attachment connects to the tool via the threaded nosecap that is on the front of some Dremel tools. The 7300-PGT is a unique product that contains this threaded Nosecap. The standard Dremel 7300 is a separate product and does not contain the threaded Nosecap feature.
The tool speed should not exceed 10,000 RPM. If you exceed this speed you risk causing discomfort to the animal because the nail heats up quickly at higher speeds.
The height adjustments allow the attachment to be used with a variety of Dremel rotary tools. Please set the height based upon the tool with which you wish to use the attachment.
If the EZ Lock™ mandrel does not fit into the collet, it is possible that the collet is stuck within the collet nut. If this happens, remove the collet nut from the tool by continuing to twist it counterclockwise. If the collet does not separate from the collet nut when removed from the tool, push the shank of the EZ Lock™ mandrel 6 into the hole in the collet nut 3. This should cause the collet 4 to pop out of the collet nut 3. Re-assemble by placing the collet 4 into the output shaft 8 and twisting the collet nut 3 clockwise over the collet to tighten it back onto the output shaft 8 (Fig. 3). Then proceed with installing the EZ Lock™ mandrel according to the instructions.
Before trimming your pet’s nails, you will need to identify the quick. The diagram below shows the basic anatomy of a pet’s toenail. The outer nail is hard and has no feeling because it has no nerve endings. The core of the nail is the quick. It is made up of tiny blood vessels and nerve endings and is very sensitive. The quick is a vein that “feeds” the toenail. Should you cut the quick while trimming a nail, the nail will start to bleed. Light colored nails are often transparent enough to allow you to see the quick’s pink core. Dark colored nails may not allow you to see where the quick is located. Pets may have both light and dark colored nails that allow you to estimate the length of the quick.
The diagram also shows an estimate of the proper angle at which to trim a pet’s nails. A rule of thumb for the proper angle is 45 degrees upwards from the bottom of the paw. This angle is what the guide on the attachment provides. The proper angle may vary according to the pet owner’s wishes or the pet’s unique anatomy. Trim nails so that they almost touch the ground when your pet is walking.
Grooming a pet’s nails for the first time can be a worrisome experience for both the pet and pet owner. Rest assured that nail grooming does not have to be a stressful experience. By starting early and considering grooming to be part of your pet’s training, your pet will grow used to the experience. First, train your pet to feel comfortable with their paws being touched and handled before exposing them to the rotary tool.
One way to do this is to massage their legs, paws, and individual toes for a few minutes at least once a day. Afterwards, create a positive association with this experience by rewarding your pet with its favorite snack. Next, help your pet grow gradually accustomed to the rotary tool. Let your pet sniff the tool while it is turned off. Then, while keeping the tool in your hand, let your pet listen to the sound the tool makes when it is turned on. Ideally, have your pet sit or lay on its side while the tool is in your hand and running. Gradually work up to having your pet’s toenails touch the rotating sanding disc for less than a second. Do not grind the nails yet; simply let your pet become familiar with the tool. Throughout the acclimation process, continue to praise your pet and reward good behavior with a snack. This process may take a couple of days or weeks.
The AT01-PGA Pet Grooming attachment can be used with the SD60-PGA pet grooming sanding discs. These specially designed discs are smaller in diameter than the similar EZ411SA, EZ412SA and EZ412SA sanding discs.
The Cutting Guide Attachment is designed to help the user maintain depth while using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).
The Grout Removal Attachment is angled to accommodate smoother, more efficient removal of a fine grout line - allowing you to carefully pull the grout removal accessory through the grout line. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same as the Grout Removal Attachment. The Multipurpose and Tile Cutting Guides are flat and manage depth at best when flat against the material. You can also use the Cutting Guide or Tile Guide in different directions. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.
The attachment threads onto the end of most Dremel high speed rotary tools. However, if you have an older tool without threads or with different threads, it will not thread onto the older style tools. We do not have a way to safely adapt or retrofit the attachment to those tools.
The Cutting Guide is designed to maintain while cutting straight on or at a full 90°. The Grout Removal is angled and the grout removal bits require less side pressure when effectively cutting. Using them at a full 90° could snap the tip of the accessory. We do not recommend using the Grout Removal accessories with the standard Cutting Guide.
No. We recommend using the collet and collet nut that came with your tool. Those will lock onto the accessory more effectively and safely in this more aggressive application.
The accessories used with this guide are very aggressive. They are also spinning 30,000 to 35,000 rpm. The cut of the accessory will be rough and the cutting action could be difficult to control, depending on the material. Remember, with the tool spinning so fast, the greatest success will be found if you simply let the speed of the tool do the work and guide the tool. Be aware of the fact that wood will have grain and the grain can interfere with the cut. Tile, drywall and wood are all tough materials used in building, so there will be resistance to the cut. Before working on any work piece or project, try your application on some scrap. If you need a straight line, practice cutting a straight line with the same material as your work piece. Do not expect it to be perfect without taking the time to get comfortable with the application and the material. The tool and the accessory alone do not perform the work, your guiding hand will direct the tool.
It is always best to cut in a clockwise direction with any spiral saw, unless you are cutting out for an electrical box in drywall. Then we would recommend going in a counterclockwise direction with the Drywall (Guidepoint) bit. This accessory has a guidepoint on the end that will travel around the electrical box. By moving counterclockwise, the guidepoint will stay tighter around the electrical box.
Yes it is possible. This is a guide that will help manage depth, evenness of cut and stability.
The Multipurpose cutting bit (#561) with the Cutting Guide can be used on plywood. It will work on plywood 3/8'' thick. Keep in mind the cut will be rough, so there will be finish work to do after the cut is complete. Also keep in mind pushing the bit through the wood will not make a successful cut faster. It will really risk damaging the accessory and the cut you are making.
The Tile bit (#562) will work to cut tile that is suitable for a wall only. If the tile you are working with could be used on a floor or is suitable for foot traffic, the #562 cannot cut that. It can cut standard ceramic wall tile. This is generally white on the back and very high gloss color on the front. If you are trying to cut a hole in a standard ceramic wall tile to replace a broken piece, we recommend you stabilize the tile you will be cutting in a vise or holder of some type. Then start the cut with the accessory at 45° to the material - not 90°. Once the hole is started you can bring the accessory and tool to a full 90° to make the remainder of the cut. Remember the fluting is not fully on the tip of the accessory - so starting an aggressive cut of this nature with the tip will risk ruining the accessory.
Placement of the accessory in the tool is really important. Make sure you are locking the collet nut and collet down onto the SHANK of the accessory or the smooth part. The flutes are not designed to be clamped onto as the shank is much stronger and can withstand the applied pressure to guide a cut.
No. We recommend using the collet and collet nut that came with your tool. Those will lock onto the accessory more effectively and safely in this more aggressive application.
Placement of the accessory in the tool is really important. Make sure you are locking the collet nut and collet down onto the SHANK of the accessory or the smooth part. The flutes are not designed to be clamped onto as the shank is much stronger and can withstand the applied pressure to guide a cut.
The Circle Cutting Guide is designed to help the user maintain depth while executing a circle cut out using Dremel spiral saw cutting accessories like the 560 (drywall), 561 ( Multipurpose), and 562 (ceramic wall tile).
These attachment really work with the same basic accessories. The Circle Cutting Guide has a pivot point on it that will allow you to make a circle in your material or you can quickly convert the guide to be used to cut or channel a straight cut from the edge of the material. The Multipurpose Cutting Kit and Tile Cutting kit are not the same - while they help you manage the depth, cutting a circle with either of these two is done free-hand. The difference between the 565 and 566 are the accessory (bits) that come with the guide. The guide is the same in each of those.
First, unthread the housing cap from the end of the tool. The Circle Cutting Guide will thread onto the tool where the housing cap came off.
The attachment threads onto the end of most Dremel high speed rotary tools. However, if you have an older tool without threads or with different threads, it will not thread onto the older style tools. We do not have a way to safely adapt or retrofit the attachment to those tools.
In many instances users may find themselves quickly making a pilot hole and they are doing that by quickly making a hole into their material with the same accessory they will use to execute the cut. IF the pilot hole being made for the pivot point is larger or longer than that pivot point, the pivot point can actually shift of move while the cut is being made. If what you need is a more exacting circle, the easiest way to do that is to drill a 1/8'' diameter hole where the pivot point will be placed as you start the cut. This will stop the pivot point from moving or shifting during the cut.
The Right Angle Attachment is designed to get the user into tight areas or approach a material from an alternative direction to effectively cut, grind, polish, etc
This attachment will work on all Dremel high speed rotary tool with a threaded nosepiece (the vast majority). On the older tools the threads are different or do not exist. Unfortunately, we do not have a safe way to adapt this to older tools. If using this on a cordless tool, keep in mind that it does require a substantial amount of energy to run the Right Angle - the normal run time on any battery powered tool will be diminished if you are using the Right Angle Attachment.
To attach the Right Angle, from the tool remove the housing cap, the collet nut and then the collet. The collet and collet nut will go onto the nose of the right angle attachment to hold the accessory. On the metal threaded end of the high speed rotary tool, add the six sided nut (called a driver cap) that came with your Right Angle Attachment. It will thread on about half way. The six sided nut will have a square hole in it that will drive the shaft inside the Right Angle. You may have to turn the shaft of the high speed rotary tool slightly to get the square hole to marry up with the drive shaft. Once positioned, the Right Angle Attachment can be threaded onto the high speed rotary tool.
No, it is not safe.
Yes, the Right Angle Attachment will spin the same speed selected on the high speed rotary tool.
On the nose of the Right Angle Attachment there is a 1/8'' hole that can accept the shank end of an accessory. That will stop the shaft of the Right Angle from turning when tightening an accessory on the attachment. Be sure to remove the accessory used to hold the shaft before engaging the high speed rotary tool.
No. We do not recommend attempting to use accessories that would be classified as router bits. Those should only be used with attachments that can manage depth.
It is necessary to remove three items from the nose of the rotary tool: the housing cap, the collet nut, and the collet nut. First unthread the housing cap, then hold down the collet lock button and unthread the collet. Once removed from the tool, you will also see the collet. Remove the collet. Along with the Flex Shaft in the package you will find a six sided nut with a square hole (this is called a driver cap). It’s easier to see the square hole if you hold the nut up to the light and look through it. Again, hold the collet lock down and carefully thread the driver cap onto the bare metal threads of the high speed rotary tool where the collet and collet nut were removed. To make the Flex Shaft attachment functional, the collet should go into the end of the hand piece on the flexible shaft and the collet nut should go over the metal threading on the hand piece end of the flexible shaft. To tighten the collet nut on the hand piece, press the silver shaft lock button on the hand piece of the flexible shaft. This will stop the threaded area from turning as you tighten the accessory you want to use in the hand piece.
The purpose of the attachment is to get the weight of the tool away from the users hand and provide excellent control with a pencil like grip. This attachment is ideal for getting into tight areas and providing more control for the user. If you were doing fine engraving, this could provide the extra control and lessen the fatigue one could normally feel if the project were larger scale. If you were working on an engine, where things can get pretty tight, the flex shaft might be just what you need to get into the tight area
It does not necessarily have to hang. There is ribbing in the casing of the flex shaft that should allow you to simply secure your high speed rotary tool – however, if you are bending the flex shaft beyond tolerance, or keeping the nose of the tool below the hand piece, you may find the flex shaft will disengage. Our experience has been that the greatest success will come from keeping whatever tool is driving the flex shaft ABOVE the flex shaft. For example, if you were working underneath a sink and you were using the flex shaft to cut a pipe in a tight area, if you rest the tool on the floor and try to use the flex shaft in an upward position, it will probably disengage.
This attachment will not work on many of the older, discontinued tools that do not have a threaded nose piece. It does thread onto the majority of the Dremel high speed rotary tool models. Of the older tools without a threaded nose piece, there unfortunately is not way to safely adapt this attachment or modify the tool.
It will certainly attach to our our current cordless tools. One thing to keep in mind when using this attachment with a cordless tool – because the tool is running the entire shaft, the run time on any battery operated tool could be greatly diminished. If the majority of your applications will require the flex shaft, we recommend using a corded tool.
No. Keep in mind that the tool is driven by the motor of the high speed rotary tool and speed creates heat and friction and a number of other factors that play some role in dictating safe operating limits. A longer flex shaft won’t necessarily mean a better flex shaft. It could wear more quickly, run much hotter, and have a greater propensity to breaking.
Stay very aware of the bend you’re placing on the cable. Our recommendation is that you limit that bend so you reduce any resistance on the core running in the casing of the flex shaft. Also check the lubrication on the shaft – we recommend a light coating of flex shaft lubrication after the first 20 – 30 hours of use and then every 10 hours after that. (Check the manual for more complete instructions).
When you first connect the flex shaft to the tool, make sure it’s inserted into the hole of the driver cap. Then secure the flex shaft to the tool and plug the tool in. Keep the entire tool and flex shaft in a straight vertical line. (Hanging it on something is probably the easiest way to do this). Secure the hand piece, and turn the tool on and let the core of the flex shaft seat itself for about 30 seconds with no bends and no pressure on the spinning tool.
To reduce confusion, we include what you need to adapt the attachment to you tool – so we include the driver cap. The collet and collet nut cannot stay on the tool when the flex shaft is connected, those can be used on the hand piece of the flex shaft.