Wine Nook

Begin by cutting your 3/4" sanded plywood panel to size per the cut list. Measure and mark your lines of cut onto you're the panel. Then, with the panel secured to your work bench, use the Dremel Saw-Max equipped with a SM500 wheel to cut along the marked lines.

Next, make a series of cuts in your 3/4" x 3/4" pine cleating material per the shot list. You'll use the same Saw-Max and SM500 wheel to complete this cut. Instead of making a rip cut as you did in step 1, you may find it easiest to use a plunging motion cutting straight down through the marked line of cut.

Now you're ready to being building your structure for the nook. Begin by securing cleats to each side of the base. The cleats will serve as support against which you'll secure each of your side panel. To get started, lay your 16" x 25" panel flat across your workbench. Measure in 1" from each 25" side and mark a series of 4 pilot holes along the sides. You'll mount the cleating 1" from the front of the front of the base, flush against the back. To create your pilot holes, insert a 150 drill bit in your Dremel 4200 tool. Set the tool to high speed and plunge the accessory perpendicular into the material. Make a matching series of pilot holes through your cleating material. Finish by sinking in screws through your pilot holes using your drill.

Drill your sides in place against each of the pieces of cleating material mounted to the base, flush against the back of the base & one inch from the front (as the cleats are placed.) Next, attach cleating material to cap the top of each side. Through the cleating material, secure the top & into place. For a more finished look, secure the top by drilling from underneath.

At this step, if you're planning on adding your own wine glass hangers, we recommend doing it now. You can add a variety of touches inside your nook. Some ideas we had were: - Wine glass hangers (store-bought or made yourself) - Shelving - An additional wine rack or ice bucket We'll show you how we made our four rows of wine glass hangers though you can also find them pre-made at your local home improvement store. First, make the following cuts to your materials (per the cut list): • (3) 3/4" Cleats 15" long • (3) 3 3/4" Plates 15" long We flipped our nook upside-down and used the existing 3/4" cleat on the inside as our first hanger. Measuring equal spacing apart we set ours 4 3/4" apart, we attached 3 additional cleats to the underside of the top & capped them with the 3 3/4" wide pine board. Tip: If you have the glassware available, we recommend test-measuring your spacing before securing into place.

We added four feet for stability to our nook with the 3 3/4" wide pine material cut to 4" squares using our Saw-Max and SM500 Wheel.

Attach your large 66" back panel against the back of your newly constructed nook, flush against the bottom. Sink screws along the entire perimeter of the nook.

Next, we added a facade on our top (still separate) 23 1/2" x 36" upper panel of our nook to compliment the copper pipe. We picked up this faux-copper ceiling tile at our local home improvement store. This material is actually vinyl, though it looks like copper and is simple to cut with the Saw-Max & SM500 Wood & Plastic Wheel! We needed to cut two squares of 18 x 24 tile to size to cover the inside frame of our nook. We set the tile into place in the upper frame using wood glue. If the copper tile does not quite reach to the edge of your top panel, don't worry! We'll be adding trim to the inside of the panel in step 9.

Next, we framed out the top of our nook by making the following cuts using our Saw-Max and SM500 wheel: • (1) Upper Cap: 1 x 3 Pine to 26" long • (2) Side Frame rails: 1 x 2 Pine to 36" long Secure the frame pieces into place, mounting the cap atop the nook first, using a hammer and finishing nails.

To give the upper frame a finished look, we made the following cuts in 1/4" cove molding using our Saw-Max tool equipped with the SM500 wheel. Here again, we utilized the plunging motion as we did in step 2 to make our cuts. • Top & Bottom (2) to 23.5" length • Sides (2) to 35" length We used wood glue to set the trim into place.

Finally, secure your upper framed panel into place, against the 66" back panel, flush against the top of the shelf. Drill into place through the bottom framing piece and through the back of the 66" back panel.

Now the real fun begins - adding bottle supports! We will secure sets of dowels placed 3" apart, one set of rods for each bottle. You can choose random spacing for your bottles. We chose to make a pattern to support 8 bottles. To get started, you'll drill sets of 1/2" holes placed as desired across the top panel. We made a template out of scrap wood to help us space the holes evenly each time.

Next, you'll need to cut your 1/2" wood dowels into 10" lengths. As we had 8 sets of bottle holders, we cut 16 wooden dowels. Next, we cut our copper pipe to 16 pieces of 9" lengths.

With a rubber mallet, pound the wooden dowels into the holes until they are flush with the back panel. You can also put a dab of wood glue into each hole for added strength. Slide the copper pipe over each dowel and cap with a copper pipe cap. if the pipe is too loose on the dowel, you can wrap a piece of electrical or duct tape around the dowel to make the fit more snug.

Finally, paint and finish as desired! We painted our nook black and added a "petina" syle finish by distressing it with the NEW Multi-Max MM30. To add a distressed look to your finish using this technique, allow your paint to first dry completely. Then, mount 80P Sandpaper to your Multi-Max tool. With your tool set to a medium speed, make several light passes in random order across your piece.